Whoa! BEFORE YOU REMOVE ANYTHING, pick up one of these fairly inexpensive remote starter switches (see pic below). One clip to each terminal on the starter, doesn't matter which to which, and push the button. If the starter cranks the engine over like normal, your starter is fine and dandy, and that means you have an electrical issue.

 

I'll see if I can find one of those hickey jiggers lol

 

It takes the place of the screwdriver I mentioned earlier. It's safer for those who've never "terminal jumped" a starter before.

 

Do you turn the key while doing that? It actually will crank the car?

 

It should (will, if the starter is good) crank the engine over with the key off or on. Engine won't start with the key off, and/or having the VATS disabled.

 

I am a little confused. If the car is trying to start what is the point of a remote starter? All the remote starter does is power up the start solenoid. If the solenoid was not getting power the car would not try to start? Solenoid either works or does not work adding power should have no effect? if she sees belts turning its working.


With a 20 plus year old car I would be temped to just replace the starter and cables and be done with it. That does assume this is not an issue with the motor and the reason the starter is cranking slow is the starter system not the fact the motor is damaged.

 

I am confused, too. If the serpentine belt is turning, the starter must be turning, at least slowly since the starter is turning the flywheel which is connected through the crankshaft to its front pulley which drives the serpentine belt, i.e., the starter makes the belt turn.

 

I based what I said off the progress of observations she gave. First the engine was turning over, but the engine wouldn't start. "No fire" when cranking isn't a starter problem, that's ignition or fuel.
Then the starter makes no noise at all.
Then she watches the belt turn, yet the engine "isn't turning at all".
Yep, don't feel bad, I'm confused as well. But, is the start wire at the solenoid getting a full 12 volts? Good question. I gave one way to eliminate there being a possible wiring issue.
Could the starter be bad? Absolutely. But I'd rather "bench test" the starter while it's still on the engine before ripping into things to remove it.
Another possibility: Is the engine well grounded? Good question. A poor ground will cause a starter to try to work but not carry enough amps to turn the engine over.

 

Not quoting you but on phone and it is replying like that. First it's 18 yrs old and as a mom I can't rush to say 20 yrs old just yet lol. I have wanted the starter replaced since I had it. That and fuel pump are about all I haven't replaced. I don't get why anything would be ungrounded etc. It was perfectly fine when I parked it Friday and then extremely slow attempt to start twice on Monday morning. The belt was turning when hooked to jumper cables. I'm assuming it probably was beforehand as well but I wasn't out there to watch it. We are having a lot of rain over weekend and my husband is off until jan 2nd so they are gonna take starter off and we'll get it tested. I'd like a new one just the same. Keep going with your conversations though. I might learn something

 

Oh man, you really shouldn't have said anything about the fuel pump. Now your car's gonna get even with you! lol
With age, damp weather, salt, etc., ground connections can form corrosion between the cable and where it's attached to the engine block or frame. At one point, a border-line ground connection can go from working one day to not the next. Which is why I threw that in there. Not that that's what you have with certainty, but I have had a bad battery to engine/frame ground do just what you're getting....a click on the starter but not able to carry enough juice to turn the engine over.