Sorry no clue. Have you checked youtube for how to videos?

 

Yeah, i'm confident in doing the work, but based on other forum comments about the repair bearings, and possible issues with traction control, I am considering buying a new axle. They seem pretty cheap on ebay.

 

Threaded this dam bolt and i cant get it out!!!

 

When doing the carrier pin bolt, three things that make it easy. Use heat, I've seen plenty that have loctite on them. A propane/map gas torch will work. Use a 5/16 6 point wrench. Using the 6 point is key because many of times the 12 point will round it off. Once it's broke lose the 12 point is fine. Replace it if you round the edges even slightly. Also patience is needed will doing it. They can be PITA.

Bearing itself is not hard to replace. Rent or buy a slide hammer. You can pull the seal and bearing all in one shot and usually only takes 4-5 good hits. Large socket to tap the new bearing and seal back in. If the area where the shaft is marked up, get the repair bearing. It moves the bearing to a new spot of hardened area and comes as an all in one with the seal.

National bearing #5707 for stock replacement

National repair bearing #RP5707

National Seal #8660S

 

Thanks for your comments. I'm having a real nightamre getting the bolt off. I used a 12 point instead of a 6 point which explains why i threaded it. Looks like i'm going to have to try drill it out!

 

If it's stripped, you're more than likely going to need to try and hammer on a size slightly smaller and use heat to get the bolt out. I'd try that before drilling.

 

Alright guys I need you once more.

Long story short I managed to get the axle out. I had a real nightmare getting the c clamp out, and as I suspected, it appears a previous owner had already used a repair bearing. Looking at these photos, cam someone please confirm if I have to replace the entire axle? It still feels very smooth but you can clearly see marks on the axle where it's warn

Haven't got the tool to get the bearing out yet. Lucky I have a corvette to daily drive in the mean time!

 

Can you feel any high spots or burrs? From the pic it looks pretty good. If you feel a burr you can always take some 400 or 600 grit and run it around to knock it down. But again, from the pic, it looks just fine.

 

Thanks mate. Nah it feels really smooth, I'm thinking I might just put a new OEM bearing on and give it a go. I just dont want to have to pull it all to bits again if there is still slight play in the wheel when moving it side to side. - Its really small movement but still a 'safety issue' for passing inspection here in NZ.

Does anyone have a pic of the axle, ideally a pitted one and a non-pitted one so I can try compare?

 

I can get you a pic of my old axles if you want, they are still in good shape.

As far as I know, there's always gonna be some slight play with the bearing, there has to be as it's not a press fit, add to the fact that different bearing manufactures have different tolerances, though these would be slight.

You can always have them put an indicator on it. Most inspections require them to do this any ways unless it's really noticeable. I can see a issue if you move the axle an 1/8 inch or more, but the bearing does nothing but support the axle. The axle in a semi-float carries both the load of the vehicle and rotational stress from the engine. If the bearing would fail, the worse it can do is ruin the axle. The axle can't physically leave the vehicle even if the c-clip broke so long as the vehicle has disc brakes...drums is a different story.