Project L36 Sleeper
#161
psst dont tell anybody im back lol,couldnt help it after my boudy texted me last night and said a ugly terquoise v6 camaro ran a 14.55 i had to call him and ask him if it had black stripes lol and behold it,it did lol thats when i had him ask you if your name was musicman and if you new 73camaross,i could here you in the back ground go Tony lol i mean whats the chance that would happen.
go out and kick some *** in that turquoise sleeper
Oh and P.S my budy that you talked to has a 89 gt 5.0 that runs the same times you run you should have asked him for a run so he could get beat again by a mighty sixxer.lol
go out and kick some *** in that turquoise sleeper
Oh and P.S my budy that you talked to has a 89 gt 5.0 that runs the same times you run you should have asked him for a run so he could get beat again by a mighty sixxer.lol
#163
She's still running like a top, and despite the bad tune and bad intake, it's still getting fair mileage performing DD duties. Gonna tune for open TB tomorrow, and try to get in one last race before I put her up for the winter.
This project is far from over, this was just phase 1 out of 4. Each step is in years, next summer will be 2. Next up is nitrous, dyno tune, clutch, body-mounted torque arm (takes stress of the cheesy T5 tranny), quiet exhaust, electric cutout. Step 3 will be cometic head gaskets, Yella Terra roller rockers in 1.7 ratio, forged pistons, huge injectors, more nitrous, more dyno tune. I'm planning on killing something next summer in phase 2. 4 will be race conversion, stripped to bare track goods, pin-on hood, fiberglass hatch with speed glass, you get the picture.
Ultimately I'm planning on getting my 13's NA (basically there), high 12's with the first round of nitrous (next summer), and 11's with full track conversion and stronger engine (few years out). My goal is to not be the fastest sixxer, but be the fastest manual trans sixxer. If I get mid-12's, I'm there.
This project is far from over, this was just phase 1 out of 4. Each step is in years, next summer will be 2. Next up is nitrous, dyno tune, clutch, body-mounted torque arm (takes stress of the cheesy T5 tranny), quiet exhaust, electric cutout. Step 3 will be cometic head gaskets, Yella Terra roller rockers in 1.7 ratio, forged pistons, huge injectors, more nitrous, more dyno tune. I'm planning on killing something next summer in phase 2. 4 will be race conversion, stripped to bare track goods, pin-on hood, fiberglass hatch with speed glass, you get the picture.
Ultimately I'm planning on getting my 13's NA (basically there), high 12's with the first round of nitrous (next summer), and 11's with full track conversion and stronger engine (few years out). My goal is to not be the fastest sixxer, but be the fastest manual trans sixxer. If I get mid-12's, I'm there.
#164
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,448
I’ll bet your clutch is hurting way more then you think. A clutch can be slipping long before you feel it. A clutch works a lot like a brake. As it slips it converted power to heat. This allows you to adjust the amount of power you put to the rear wheels. Normally you make a small amount of heat and no real damage is done, (just like brakes) But when you put a motor that is two strong for the clutch the clutch will still drive the car but as it slips at high RPMs it generates a lot of heat, Way more then it was designed to handle. But you will not feel it until the metal parts can not hold any more heats. Once everything is overheated the driver will feel the RPMS wined freely under load. If you have ever over heated a set of rotor you know what I am talking about. With short ¼ mile runs your clutch may not get completely saturated with heat, which is good, but you could easily be loosing 20-30 HP thru the whole ¼ mile. I would love to see Good tune/Good intake/Good clutch run.
I was on the fence about changing the clutch in my car until I saw the OEM design. My clutch was at about 70% in terms of wear. The Centerforce I put in has the same pressure as stock pressure plate its just a better design and the Duel friction clutch plate, every other pad is a composite, adds up to an increase of 90% holding power with the same pressure. I think your on the right track with the Stage three but I would not be surprised if just that clutch gave you .3-.4 seconds off your time.
I was on the fence about changing the clutch in my car until I saw the OEM design. My clutch was at about 70% in terms of wear. The Centerforce I put in has the same pressure as stock pressure plate its just a better design and the Duel friction clutch plate, every other pad is a composite, adds up to an increase of 90% holding power with the same pressure. I think your on the right track with the Stage three but I would not be surprised if just that clutch gave you .3-.4 seconds off your time.
#165
The clutch is the first thing on my plate. Something else that I'm looking at is the aluminum flywheel, though I'm on the fence about it. The reason is simple, torque. Take that rotational mass away, or make it less, and this 3300lb car is going to be tough to get off the line with a small engine. But the iron flywheel becomes a negative factor when you're up and moving, the engine has to work much harder to accelerate.
The clutch is tough when it comes to this transmission. One of my theory's behind my oem-grade setup is that it'll take a little of the stress off of the glass internals in the T5. These are odd transmissions, the casing is thin, and the internals aren't very stout. One reason they grenade is because of the trans-mounted torque arm. It actually flexes the case, putting even more strain on the T5. This is solved with a body-mounted setup.
The clutch is tough when it comes to this transmission. One of my theory's behind my oem-grade setup is that it'll take a little of the stress off of the glass internals in the T5. These are odd transmissions, the casing is thin, and the internals aren't very stout. One reason they grenade is because of the trans-mounted torque arm. It actually flexes the case, putting even more strain on the T5. This is solved with a body-mounted setup.
#169
yeah, my camaro has the 3.4 in it. so far its proven to me to be a garbage motor. the mustang is a better platform for me to work with. Im not picky, so long as its american and the back wheels spin