Oil pressure switch

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  #11  
Old 10-19-2012, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by wayne242
Is it possible to locate that wire under the dash without removing the cluster?
If you mean actually finding the wire... its really easier to find it on the cluster housing. Theres a large plug that fits into the left side of the cluster once you have it out. I used an ohm meter to find it. One lead on the switch side and then just look for the tan wire at the plug in and see if it has continuity.... If it doesnt, the wire is the problem. If it does, its the switch or gauge itself.

For making the actual connection, I drilled a small hole in the firewall and ran the new wire from the sender through into the car and up to the cluster. I used as much of the factory looming as i could, and sealed the hole with some silicone and that was it.
 
  #12  
Old 10-19-2012, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by wayne242
I noticed when i pulled on the wire to the sender, and turn the key on and then off the gauge would drop down until started(then peg out again). After starting it, it then go's back to staying pegged to max.
Appears to me that the problem is at the oil pressure switch, either with the wire connector, a break in the wire right at or near the connection, corrosion at the plug, or the switch itself is bad. Running a completely new wire from point a to b would be the last thing I'd look at doing.
 
  #13  
Old 10-19-2012, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Camaro 69
Appears to me that the problem is at the oil pressure switch, either with the wire connector, a break in the wire right at or near the connection, corrosion at the plug, or the switch itself is bad. Running a completely new wire from point a to b would be the last thing I'd look at doing.

Yeah, did not see anything wrong with the plug itself. So just picking up a new switch for $28 in the morning be for work. I been to busy to get to the parts house lately.
 
  #14  
Old 10-19-2012, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 2Z's
If you mean actually finding the wire... its really easier to find it on the cluster housing. Theres a large plug that fits into the left side of the cluster once you have it out. I used an ohm meter to find it. One lead on the switch side and then just look for the tan wire at the plug in and see if it has continuity.... If it doesnt, the wire is the problem. If it does, its the switch or gauge itself.

For making the actual connection, I drilled a small hole in the firewall and ran the new wire from the sender through into the car and up to the cluster. I used as much of the factory looming as i could, and sealed the hole with some silicone and that was it.
Thanks, that's probably what i will do if the switch does not work. I was going to put an aftermarket oil gauge in, but just don't want to mess with that right now(i would have to buy a pod for the pillar to make it look clean if i did).
 
  #15  
Old 10-22-2012, 05:53 PM
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cant get a socket on the old oil pressure switch cause of the stupid egr and turned to close on the valve cover. Tried the wire deal and that was a complete wast of time that resulted in a cracked dash (i blame GM for making a retarded dash like this).
 
  #16  
Old 10-22-2012, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by wayne242
cant get a socket on the old oil pressure switch cause of the stupid egr and turned to close on the valve cover. Tried the wire deal and that was a complete wast of time that resulted in a cracked dash (i blame GM for making a retarded dash like this).
Don't worry, a cracked dash was gonna happen eventually, they all do in these fourth gens. I can't remember who did it, but there was a write up on putting a cracked one back together and reinforcing it so that didn't happen again.

Try using a short crescent wrench to get it out or even a wrench instead of a socket.
 
  #17  
Old 10-23-2012, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by MKCoconuts
Don't worry, a cracked dash was gonna happen eventually, they all do in these fourth gens. I can't remember who did it, but there was a write up on putting a cracked one back together and reinforcing it so that didn't happen again.

Try using a short crescent wrench to get it out or even a wrench instead of a socket.

Cant get them around the nut section of the oil pressure sensor due to EGR valve. When i get more time, i guess I'm going to try and pry it to see if it will turn away from the EGR.
 
  #18  
Old 10-23-2012, 04:58 PM
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Buddy had a 1 1/16 socket that fit over the old oil pressure switch. I had to pry it back away from the engine with a screwdriver. However the old one was much much shorter then the new one, so i had to hand tighten it. Then use a pair of pliers to tighten it a little more.

None the less, it as great oil pressure haha.. Guess that was worth all the trouble to see
 
  #19  
Old 10-23-2012, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by MKCoconuts
Don't worry, a cracked dash was gonna happen eventually, they all do in these fourth gens. I can't remember who did it, but there was a write up on putting a cracked one back together and reinforcing it so that didn't happen again.

Try using a short crescent wrench to get it out or even a wrench instead of a socket.
chaotic94 fitted his all back together and covered it in vinyl, it looks pretty good.

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  #20  
Old 10-23-2012, 05:58 PM
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Nice, I need to find a write up on that. I tried to pull mine out, but the section near the windshield would not pop up. So I stopped so i would not break it into little parts (right now its cracked in 2 long parts). I'll probably wait until i get the windshield changed next summer and pull it out once they take out the old cracked windshield.


Originally Posted by BasicConcepts
chaotic94 fitted his all back together and covered it in vinyl, it looks pretty good.

 


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