Oil pressure switch
#1
Oil pressure switch
The car is a 95 Z28 LT1.
How many wires should the plug have that connects to the oil pressure switch?
Also if you unplug the oil pressure switch and your oil still max's out when you start there care, is this a wire problem?
I ask about the wires because my plug only as 1 wire and does not seem right to me. The engine is the second engine for the car (odd for a car with only 130k, but hey i got a new engine haha). So not sure if maybe they damaged the wires to the oil pressure switch.
Thanks for any tips or suggestions, trying to trace down this bug in the system.
How many wires should the plug have that connects to the oil pressure switch?
Also if you unplug the oil pressure switch and your oil still max's out when you start there care, is this a wire problem?
I ask about the wires because my plug only as 1 wire and does not seem right to me. The engine is the second engine for the car (odd for a car with only 130k, but hey i got a new engine haha). So not sure if maybe they damaged the wires to the oil pressure switch.
Thanks for any tips or suggestions, trying to trace down this bug in the system.
#3
Should be a single wire. I believe its tan. Try this test. Remove the gauge cluster. Find the tan wire that goes to the sender. Cut it. Now run a wire from the sender end to the wire you cut that goes into the cluster. Turn the engine on and see if it works. youll know pretty much as soon as you put the key in the on position because it wont bury or peg.
#4
Should be a single wire. I believe its tan. Try this test. Remove the gauge cluster. Find the tan wire that goes to the sender. Cut it. Now run a wire from the sender end to the wire you cut that goes into the cluster. Turn the engine on and see if it works. youll know pretty much as soon as you put the key in the on position because it wont bury or peg.
I'll get on this in the morning if i have some wire left in the garage.
#6
What i find odd( correct me if im wrong), but with the wire unplugged the gauge should not stay pegged to max? This is what leads me to think the wire is damaged possibly.
#7
Mine was but I couldnt find where, so I just ran a new one to the cluster like I described.
#8
Is it possible to locate that wire under the dash without removing the cluster?
#9
With the wire unplugged, it should stay pegged. Any time there's a problem where the gauge doesn't receive a signal (bad sensor, broken sensor, burned wire, etc), it pegs to max.
I'm sure you could run the wire under the dash, but it's a much cleaner install doing it the stock way. Yeah, it takes a while, but it'll help any future owners later in the cars life. I would check out the wire first and if it checks good, I would replace the sensor as they aren't more than $20 at a parts store.
I'm sure you could run the wire under the dash, but it's a much cleaner install doing it the stock way. Yeah, it takes a while, but it'll help any future owners later in the cars life. I would check out the wire first and if it checks good, I would replace the sensor as they aren't more than $20 at a parts store.
#10
With the wire unplugged, it should stay pegged. Any time there's a problem where the gauge doesn't receive a signal (bad sensor, broken sensor, burned wire, etc), it pegs to max.
I'm sure you could run the wire under the dash, but it's a much cleaner install doing it the stock way. Yeah, it takes a while, but it'll help any future owners later in the cars life. I would check out the wire first and if it checks good, I would replace the sensor as they aren't more than $20 at a parts store.
I'm sure you could run the wire under the dash, but it's a much cleaner install doing it the stock way. Yeah, it takes a while, but it'll help any future owners later in the cars life. I would check out the wire first and if it checks good, I would replace the sensor as they aren't more than $20 at a parts store.