thanks to all your advice i think i am going to drop the motor and change the rod and main bearings just in case there were any antifreez in the oil. i know i will need to get the front and rear main seals. should i change the oil pump, and clutch also? any other things i should check out or change please let me know.

 

Not worth it Bro. Remember you will need Cam Bearings and lifters also and the motor MUST be flushed in a acid bath. There is bearing babbit lining the oil passages. This is why GM said even a low miles motor with antifreeze in the motor is not worth fixing. Find a used motor that has clean oil and fix/rebuild that.

 

You're in the same boat that I was in a few years ago when I bought my 94. Except that the PO had driven the car until it looked like a crop duster going down the road.

While you didn't see coolant in the radiator prior to disassembly it was there. And when you pulled the heads a lot of it spilled into the cylinders. You should have drained the block of coolant before loosening the head bolts. There is a hex head tapered plug on either side of the block down low about halfway back. Driver side is easy to get at. On the passenger side you have to pull the starter to see it clearly.

Here are some pics of the engine I pulled from my 94. You don't say how many miles are on yours but mine had 130k. I ended up doing a full rebuild with boring, OS pistons, everything... Cost me about $3500 for the machine shop work. They assembled the short block and did the heads as well. I did the engine R&R, bolted on the heads and did the rest of the assembly work.

The shop found one head was cracked at cylinder 5 between the valve seats so I had to replace that head. I think everyone who has posted on the blown head gasket issue has had problems with the passenger side. Weird.

The pics:

 

Since were on the subject, i got a chance too look at my water jackets while my car was at the shop and they dont look rusted just "Gunked" up....any way to combat this?

 

Flushing and changing coolant, A flushing machine will do a better job but if money is tight you can buy the coolant flush stuff in a can. Run it for a week or so than change the coolant. It is easier to stop the gunk from forming by changing the coolant every 2-3 years then it is to get it out.

 

Any recomended brand?

 

OK. SO I GOT MY HEADS BACK FROM THE MACHINE SHOP AND THE GUY TESTED THE OIL. TURNS OUT THERE WAS NO ANTIFREEZ IN THE OIL . I HAVE TAKEN THE CRANK OUT AND A FEW OF THE BEARINGS AND A FEW PISTONS FOR THE MACHINE SHOP GUY TO INSPECT. HE TOLD ME EVERYTHING LOOKED GOOD OTHER THAN NORMAL WEAR ON A ENGINE WITH 105,000 MILES. SO HE IS GOING TO POLISH THE CRANK FOR ME. THEN NEW MAIN AND ROD BEARINGS, TIMING CHAIN AND GEARS, NEW LIFTERS, WATER PUMP AND OIL PUMP.

ITS BEEN A WHILE BUT HOPE EVERYTHING GOES WELL. I JUST HOPE I GET THIS THING BACK TOGETHER NOW. ANY ADVICE ON THE SMALL THINGS I MIGHT FORGET? KEEP THE COMMENTS COMMING. PICS TO FOLLOW IN A FEW DAYS.

 

kool thats good news. is that why your yelling. lol

 

due to wife health issues i had to put my project on hold. but all is good as far as the wife goes. back on track with the 95 3.4. i now have the engine completely rebuilt. the only thing that is from the old engine is the heads, block and crank. all other parts are new cam, lifters, pushrods, seals, bearings and all sensors. now after almost a year off this project im trying to get this thing finished. i have the engine back in the car and all the wireing hooked up. i turned the key and i have a massive leak where the injectors slip in to the intake that i will need to fix and never heard a sound from the starter. i checked the ground wires and have good voltage from the positive side of the battery to the frame and motor. any suggestions? i will get the fuel leak fixed and hope it will fire up. pics to come later.