Gorn has mentioned before about how coolant in the oil can react negatively to the bearings. In case anybody is curious about what goes on once coolant goes into the oil, give this interesting write up a read: Glycol In Lubricating Oil - Detection, Analysis and Removal

 

THIS IS THE # 5

 

HERE IS 2, 4 AND 6

 

Eeeeeeeew!! Look at those rusty crusty water jackets. Looks like the engine needed a flush 50k miles ago.

 

what an interesting observation

I explained that to my brother in law once who always prided himself in not spending money on maintenance. I removed the head form his 4 banger and showed him the water passages (or what was left of them) as well as corroded water jacket. I asked if he was glad that he saved $100 over the past 4 years because he now needs a new engine.

A new head gasket was not going to cure the issue he had.

so, go ahead and save 10 cents per gallon on gas and risk detonation, don't change your oil every 5k and don't flush your coolant every couple years.

To the OP, did you spill all that coolant into the cylinders, did it rain?

 

I TALKED TO THE GUY AT THE MACHINE SHOP THAT IS GOING TO DO THE HEADS FOR ME AND HE SAID THE OIL LOOKED MUDDY BUT NO ANTIFREEA WAS PRESENT. NOW I HOPE THE HEADS ARE NOT CRACKED. KEEP THE ADVICE COMMING, BEEN A WHILE SINCE I HAVE BEEN THIS FAR INTO AN ENGINE.

 

sorta wondering how he knew there is not coolant in the oil. if the oil is milky lookin then theres something in there besides oil.

 

Does muddy oil (as he described it) mean milky? Depends on what he's looking at I guess, and what he considers "mud". Did the machine shop guy look at the engine, or, what did he look at to say there was no coolant in the oil? Not saying there definitely was any, but you want to know for sure. And did you drain the oil from the pan before you removed the heads, to see what was or wasn't in there (too late now). Looking at your engine, it appears you removed the heads without first draining the coolant out of the block, which would explain the bath the cylinders are getting, as well as coolant that would have then gone down into the oil pan.

 

when i drained the oil from the oil pan i used a dry clear water bottle to catch some of the oil and took that sample to the machine shop. the oil is about the color of coffee with a touch of cream, kinda in between black and brown. the motor was about 100 miles from needing an oil change. i didn't drain the coolant from the radiator because their was no antifreez in sight when i removed the cap. when i removed the heads i only had a little antifreez drain out when i removed the goosneck and took out the thermostat.

 

That was a nice read, All I knew was GM used to make us fix everything as cheap as possible under warranty.Seriously, I replaced 5 connecting rods in a V6 once. I repairs a lot of motors replace only what was damaged. If one came in with antifreeze in the oil and it had been driven that GM said don't waste a second on, replace the engine. Base on that read the temp from driving is a key factor