I am a New to the Camaro's

I wanted advice on building my Car to perform to its best potential

I bought a 1995 z28 with a top end work and stock lower, 69K miles
six speed
Some big lemans style spoiler on the back.

IT has Elliot works LE1 ported heads
226/232 .578/.574 110 LSA. – 1900-6200 RPM Cam
1:6 rockers
Forged push rods
30lb injectors
Long tube headers-wrapped
Flowmaster full exhaust
KN cold air intake
Kevlar Clutch

IT was Dyno at Kennedy Dyno in western ny and it had notes on the Dyno sheet. Small oil leak and spark plug wires installed incorrectly

The car was running ****ty misfiring bogging down and choppy when I got it.
We sorted the wires out and it ran much better
But I still need to adjust the roller rockers because some are sloppy and some are too tight.


Basically my questions are
-What HP should I expect from this Build?
-Will my money be well spent taking it to my local dyno and having it retuned after I go and double check everything?
-Is weight savings my best next step in the process?
-Are sub frame connectors a waste of money on a car that is stock lower?
-What can I do to get good break performance for the track. The stock breaks are crap.

 

tune it and you should make around 400 hp at the wheels. what gears you have, that would be the next step, 373 or 390s. then suspension, koni double adjustable shocks, sway bars, weld in subframe connectors, crossmember mounted torque bar, should be a good start. have a look at what strano has, hollow sway bar set is the best.

 

Not sure what trouble you're having with the stock brakes, but I've never had any trouble stopping when I needed. But you can do the LS1 (98-02) brakes for the front. You'd need new LS spindles, calipers, pads and rotors.

As far as best performance, what are we shooting for? Drag, Auto X, stoplight to stoplight fun?

SFC are definitely worth it. Wider tires never hurt either.

 

I am looking for all around performance.

I have about six friends that have the whole **** talk lets race this spring going on.... but I plan on running the quarter mile a few times to hopefully win.

Also I want to try to take it to a track day at Watkins Glen!

But I have never raced a car before so I am the definition of NOOB

but if I can get it tuned to 400rwhp that would be great

It has all around aftermarket shocks that the previous owner installed. I will have to see if they are any good. Also it has the STB brace across the strut towers.

A friend of mine makes roll cages so I might see if he can help me put one in the car if I need one to go on a race track.

 

At this point, I'd work on adding stuff that will help put the power to the ground. I would also start to set aside money for a new rear end. The stock GM 7.5 will break, especially with a manual doing clutch dumps, it's just a matter of when.

Also, since you're new to F-bodies, we got shocks up front, not struts. But I digress.

You can do weight savings, get rid of any creature comforts you can live without. Take note though, most of these take quite a bit of tearing into to get done. Take the A/C & Heat....it is a days job if not more to do it the right way. You have to tear out the whole dash and do you're best not to crack the top dash cover, which is next to impossible.

Other ideas for more power is step up to the LE2 heads and cam spec'd by LE, if your current cam wasn't. A 383 stroker is also an idea you can look into.

 

it sounds like the po has put some bucks into this so i would not be surprised if the rear gears are 373s. yep it would be a good idea to be looking at a 12 bolt, thats 2-3k. tires are a must for track, mickey thompson drag radials grab. some of the higher grade shocks are rebuildable, some koni are, so yah check what you have. good set of adjustable konis run about 1k, double adjustable 1.5k. the cam is one of elliotts, from the sounds of it the whole setup is per lloyds directions. look at what sam has at strano parts and if your interested in buying from him give a call and he can set you up. one of the best 4th gen suspension guys in the country.

 

Thanks for all the advice. The dash is already cracked up / but maybe I wont sacrifice my creature comforts haha. Ill just leave the T tops at home to save weight.

I know it doesn't have struts but I was thinking in terms of my hyundai I got rid of lol.

I am going to just make sure I get it running perfectly and adjust all of the rockers so that I can take it to the Dyno to get tuned.

The sway bars, weld in subframe connectors, crossmember torque bar sound like a priority . my friends were telling me its a waste with such low horsepower but I think anything for traction and handling is a good investment.

basically I just need it to run down a 3.8L supercharged mustang this summer putting less than 300rwhp on the ground..... So I think I have fair chance even with my no experience. I need to practice starting with the Christmas tree.

and the breaks don't feel right so I will check the rotors and pads out and see whats up.

I want to make it a good street and track car so I am probably set for building the motor.

 

You can also pull the back seats if you don't plan on having anyone sit in them.

I don't know who your friends are, but they should know torque is what gets you moving, not horsepower. Either way, you'll be making enough to warrant them.

 

Well I was looking through the papers and stuff for the car and I crawled under neath it .... It has Eibach lowering springs and brand new aftermarket shocks. I can see where it has been bottomed out a bit here and there probably pulling in and out of parking lots

it has a Catalytic converter! which is a bummer . I thought they eliminated it when they installed the Flow master and headers.

Are they any good ??? or just for looks. the web site claims better handling.

it is not adjustable suspension but I am hoping it is an improvement on stock?

I dont see subframe bars or

 

Depends on what you're using the car for. Auto X, yeah, lowering is nice. Drag racing, I've seen cars go fast lowered and jacked up. You'll feel bumps a little bit more though.
I personally, like the car raised a little bit, not lowered.

Like I said though, right now, I'd be looking at replacing the rear with something stronger, or at least get money set aside so when it does break, you can fix it.

Also, like Craby said, talk to Sam Strano. He'll set you up in the right direction based off of what you want from the car. He's one of the best in the business.