MAF Sensor Question

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  #1  
Old 02-14-2009, 04:16 PM
rwing7486's Avatar
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Default MAF Sensor Question

Finally figured out what is wrong with my 94lt1. I need to replace the MAF and i was wondering what is the hp gain, if any, from replacing the stock one with a summit racing MAF? stock replacement costs $135 and the summit aftermarket one is $289.99. The other question is there are two different model numbers that i cant tell the difference between and they are exactly the same price. Does anyone know the difference between the two and which one i should get if it is worth it??

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294908022
 
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Old 02-14-2009, 05:36 PM
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If your engine is stock, a bigger MAF will not add much, if anything.
 
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Old 02-14-2009, 05:44 PM
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You're going to be best off replacing it with the OEM MAF. As far as the model numbers, just make sure the application is for a 1994-1997 and you should be fine. If you want to do a power upgrade and includes your MAF just purchase the larger diameter housing from Mid America Motorworks instead of buying a whole new unit. The housing is only ~$50 and Corvette Magazine got 7 RWHP and 9 RWTQ on a dyno with the larger housing. $50 is a lot less expensive than the extra $150 you pay for the whole "performance" MAF, and there's nothing different about the sensor.
 
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Old 02-15-2009, 01:55 AM
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What is the difference between a MAF with the same size but one has cold tune??
 

Last edited by rwing7486; 02-15-2009 at 11:58 AM.
  #5  
Old 02-15-2009, 01:41 PM
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A MAF measures the are temperature and speed by determining how much heat is pulled out of the sensor wire. If you have a "cold tune" it thinks there is more air density than there really is, and thus the computer is tricked into adding more fuel than it really needs. Put simply, it makes your car run rich. This works well for a couple of weeks until your computer auto adjusts the fuel trims in the computer to bring your mixture back to normal. Then you spent an extra $150 for 2 weeks worth of marginal performance that you'll never get back agian.
 
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Old 02-15-2009, 06:54 PM
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isnt the aftermarket maf all open except for the three needle sized sensors in the middle, and the factory ones are like a cadilac convertor, thus creating a better flow? atleast thats what its like on my 02 avalanche and my 97 z28..... not to be a know it all just my .02
 

Last edited by 97 lt4 z28; 02-15-2009 at 06:57 PM.
  #7  
Old 02-15-2009, 07:21 PM
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In the stock MAF there's a screen (it's not a full honeycombe like a cat) and it's function is to "straighten" the air so it has less turbulence so the MAF can get a better reading. The screen is not an actual part of the sensor, but rather a part of the housing. If you purchase the aftermarket housing I was referring to you lose the screen as well. Some people have reported the SES light coming on when they descreened their MAF though.
 
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Old 02-16-2009, 11:40 PM
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i was just curious because im pretty sure its my MAF that is messing up my car. The car runs great till after it is warmed up then it stalls and strugles to turn over and once its turned over it will idle fine for 15 seconds or so and then the rpms jump from lo to hi as the car shakes and just barely stays running and then backfires and dies. It throws the hi and lo res failue and EST ground. i checked the coil wires and replaced the coil. replaced the opti (even though this one is only 2 years old). checked spark plug wires as well and replaced the spark plugs. i pulled one of the new plugs after this happened and it was all black (along with 2 other i pulled). So the car is running way to rich which leads me to believe the only other thing it could be is the MAF or air temp sensor....which if it was would lie to the computer about the air coming in and the computer is dumping to much fuel into the cylinders. Is there anything else this could be??? or is this a safe to say this probably is the problem? let me know what you guys think. Also there is a video of what the car sounds like when it has trouble starting and backfires in my profile.
 
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Old 02-17-2009, 04:29 PM
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Unplug the connector on your MAF, this will force the car to run in open loop mode and it will use the MAP sensor and the preset fuel tables to determine the mixture. It will probably be running rich, but it should at least run, idle fine and not backfire on you. If you run it like this and it's still displaying the symptoms check your O2 sensors with a multimeter and make sure they're functioning correctly.
 
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