LS1 Questions

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  #11  
Old 08-19-2012, 03:36 PM
MKCoconuts's Avatar
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Well shoot, if you just wanted the *** to kick out, all you got do is tap the throttle.

But a true drift or autocross car will cost a good chunk of change in the suspension department. Drifting takes a lot of practice. I'd learn to drive on a dirt track and later learn to drive asphalt. The reason I say that is I've raced both and dirt track is a hell of a lot harder (but more fun too) and different.
 
  #12  
Old 08-19-2012, 03:40 PM
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With your lack of experience and knowledge right now, just stick to bolt ons and by doing so you will learn as you go. Bolt ons in it of themselves is often a big task for new or unexperienced guys, and it will put other things into perspective for you. A bolt on and tune LS1 is plenty for you right now. From boltons I would change up the shocks and sways as those are relatively easy
 
  #13  
Old 08-19-2012, 08:55 PM
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good advice MKCooconuts, i will definitely need some practice. and im doing this whole project to pursue my passion in the automotive world. im only 17 but im currently doing a vocational program in school where i get to learn and work on cars for 3 hours a day. so im hoping doing more of my own work out of class will help me advance in the class and learn more in general. i love cars and love learning about them so i really appreciate all the info. is swapping the entire rear end essential if i plan on doing full bolt ons?
 
  #14  
Old 08-19-2012, 09:14 PM
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Its essential on a stock car.

The real truth is that your 10 bolt could last a lifetime, even with H/C/I, its been done. However, that is extremely rare. A more common occurence is busting axle shafts or the diff under stock power. Mind you, that A4 cars are easier on the rear end, but the fact remains the 10 bolt was not made to withstand even stock power. I have gone through two axle shafts; one was shot when I first bought the car with 40k on teh clock and 100% stock.

Baby the rear as long as you can, but always have cash saved up to either replace it with a 9" or 12 bolt, or even buying another super cheap 10 bolt just to get by
 
  #15  
Old 08-19-2012, 09:29 PM
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what would be the cheapest reliable rear? i dont expect to reach anything above 500 whp.
 
  #16  
Old 08-19-2012, 09:52 PM
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^ What he said. Save for a 9in or 12 bolt. Depending on how much power you plan to put down will decide which to choose. While the 9in is nearly indestructible, the way the ring and pinion sits in the carrier causes a little less hp to the rear wheels and lower mpg compared to a 12 bolt but the fact that it's nearly indestructible and usually cheaper far outweighs this difference.
 
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