Lower control arm bolt seized (stuck) (rear bushing)

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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 11:44 PM
  #1  
chevcamaro's Avatar
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Default Lower control arm bolt seized (stuck) (rear bushing)

First post / thread here on camaroforums, many more to come

I've recently purchased a 1998 camaro 3800

Over all, she's in pretty good shape. runs good, 130,000km only things needed for safety certificate were 3 bulbs, tie rod end, e-brake cable and of course lower control arm bushing (rear bushing). Everything else on the list is completed.

I've removed every component to get the control arm out of the vehicle except the rear bushing bolt. It seems to be seized like no tomorrow. seems like I've tried everything (minus heat, no torch around) Ive soaked everything with about a full can of WD-40, hammered the hell out of it, even used a jack underneath it to pop it out, it just lifts the car up off the stands... tried using the jack and smashing at the same time... still nothing.

Any suggestions? have any of you ran into this problem before?

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance










 
Old Nov 20, 2011 | 11:54 PM
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you got an impact???
 
Old Nov 21, 2011 | 12:06 AM
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The nut is already loose, I just put it back on to give more surface area for the jack. The bolt itself is fused to the steel insert of the bushing and to the frame. I even went to cut the bolt with an angle grinder but clearance was an issue so didn't end up doing it. Thought about an impact chisel but I don't have one. My impact gun is electric. and no compressor atm.
 
Old Nov 21, 2011 | 07:00 AM
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probly gona take acetylene cutting torch.
 
Old Nov 21, 2011 | 08:23 AM
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+1 on craby's comment

it's cutting torch time

Damn I'm glad I live in FL where older cars aren't as rusty

The 89 I restored only needed a little PB Blaster on any of the bolts
 
Old Nov 21, 2011 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by torque_is_good
+1 on craby's comment

it's cutting torch time

Damn I'm glad I live in FL where older cars aren't as rusty

The 89 I restored only needed a little PB Blaster on any of the bolts
Florida? It's a pretty tropical atmosphere there with occasional rainfall and salty beaches and salt spray; I would think rust is common there? I live in south Texas near a beach and everything rusts, kind of sucks.
 
Old Nov 21, 2011 | 04:06 PM
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I wish I had a torch when I put my tubular ones in. This is how I got mine off:
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by iLLControl
Florida? It's a pretty tropical atmosphere there with occasional rainfall and salty beaches and salt spray; I would think rust is common there? I live in south Texas near a beach and everything rusts, kind of sucks.
nope

it's the road salt which kills cars

true story

I bought an 89 RS which spent its entire life here in FL. The only rust was a little surface rust where the paint was scratched off.

I had a 99 Dodge transported down here from NH. I junked it because there was just way too much rust underneath.

10 years newer but up north and I junked it at only 11 years of age in 2010

22 years old and it's rock solid because it's a FL car.
 
Old Nov 21, 2011 | 09:28 PM
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PITA Check out:
Help with lower ball joint removal?install? - LS1TECH

I had my lower A-Arms replaced under extended warranty along with alignment on my RS -- made a huge difference in how the front-end handles!

So I do have a spare set of OEM lower A-Arms available if anyone is interested -- PM me.
 

Last edited by libertyforall1776; Nov 21, 2011 at 09:34 PM.
Old Nov 21, 2011 | 11:22 PM
  #10  
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Thanks for the info guys. still stuck. I'm looking at a set of tubelars right now. or just poly set. thanks for the link "libertyforall1776" at least i know i'm not the only one going through this.

I might end up dropping the k - member. I want to do both sides anyways. is it hard to do?


1. Remove the lower control arms.
2. Support and raise the engine.
3. Remove the steering gear.
4. Remove the engine mounts.
5. Remove the brake pipe clip bolt from the passenger side of the crossmember.
6. Remove the brake pipe clip bolt from the driver side of the crossmember.
7. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector.
8. Remove the harness clip from the crossmember.
9. Remove the harness clips from the crossmember.
10. Remove the crossmember bolts.
11. Slide the brake pipes from the crossmember.
12. Remove the crossmember from the vehicle.
 



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