i had a window motor replaced, but i think it was after the lock already got like that.

 

take the door cover off and have a look see. could be as simple as reconnecting or unjaming the arm.

 

So....lubing up all the mechanisms with penetrating oil didn't help any?

 

well i just got my car back from the shop a few hours ago, the old 3.8 had a leaking rear main seal, and leaking oil pan and valve cover gaskets. when i got home i tried hitting it with WD40 from every angle but the key still doesnt turn. tomorrow ill probably pick up some PB blaster or graphite and see if that frees it up. then if that doesnt work ill start taking apart the door and what not.

 

ok after being busy for about the last week, i finally took my door apart and hit the lock with PB blaster, graphite, and penetrating oil, none of that worked, what needs to be replaced?

 

From inside the door, can you see the lever on the lock mechanism (the part you stick the key in) move at all? You need to know if it's the lock or the door mechanism that is frozen. The lock is an alloy and the tumblers are brass. It's not uncommon for those two to get corroded and fuse together. If the tumblers don't slide, the lock ain't turning. Did you shoot PB into the key slot? If the thing is frozen stiff, you'll need to remove it from the door and work at it. I've gotten them free before, usually with some heat from a torch and tapping on it. It's impossible to do that while it's still on the door. Just be careful because the body is pot metal and it can melt easily with the torch.

 

I got the same problem with my driver side door and my trunk I can actually turn the keyhole 360 degrees or at least the plastic around the keyhole

 

its either broken or came lose. gonna have the take the door panel off and have a look to know more.

 

well i bought a keyless entry kit will it still open the door if I install it?