My parts car has a k&n filter and housing on it should I put it on or is it not worth messing with. Also on my 94 v8 if I wanted to take it to a muffler shop and fully upgrade what would I ask for and what should it cost aprox.
I have been reading but I was hoping you could just tell me what to ask for so I dont make a stupid purchase. Thanks

 

Inspect the filter for tears. If it's alright use a filter recharge kit ($10) to clean it up and install the cold air intake system for better flow. Also, if you're not doing headers I wouldn't bother upgrading anything in the exhaust system (unless you're looking for a different sound, then just swap mufflers). A new 3" catback system will hurt your torque numbers coming from a stock 2.25" Y pipe. If you're looking for performance I'd recommend long tubes w/ 3" collectors and ORY into a 3" catback system.

 

Thanks. Nothing wrong with it sounding better but I m too cheap too buy that.
I also know the car is already faster than it needs to be but I struggle with the idea that A few more horses wouldn't hurt. Insanity is what I think they call this kind of perpetual pondering. How they fit headers in there must be elfin magic. Any idea how headers will effect changing the already buried plugs. If it exposes them more it might be worth it to run the whole upgrade.

 

It depends on the type and brand of headers. I had little issues changing plugs with my Pacesetter LT's (however, I had to carefully route the wires w/zip ties to avoid contact).

Before you upgrade the stock manifolds I'd look into the emissions regulations of your county. Shorties are good for 3-5whp, Mids are good for 5-7whp, and both allow you to keep the factory emissions controls BUT header installation is no easy task and I don't think either are worth the frustration or cost when compared to the 20whp gain from long tubes.

 

Since it's a K&N, then id throw it in. K&N have always been the preferred filters from what i'm told. Well worth the maintenance. As for prices on the exhaust, around me it varies between shops. Some shops charge more then others. You will have to call around to find out the prices. As it has been suggested before, the emissions regulations always play a part in exhaust as well. So if you have those e-checks, then youre going to have to go with shorties or mids. No check, go with the long tubes. And a rule of thumb that i was taught as a child.. bigger is better. So if you ever get confused about what size to go with, go as big as possible. Bigger pipes means better flow which means more power. With more power comes good rumbles

 

Thanks a bunch I will re read this a few times and once I think I have a plan I will post and make sure.

 

Stay away from muffler shops, and buy a quality cat-back instead... Aluminized exhaust just does not last, especially if your car goes into winter salt/snow/slop!

 

+++1^ I live on the coast so a catback exhause was a must

 

here in nj it cost me $800 to get a custom exhaust put on my f150 and that was from the long tubes back and that also included putting cats and all of the emissions crap back together o yea and that was for stainless and i brought my own muffler (super 44) that was like 40 bucks