What do you think it needs? Or is it good?

Lingenfelter Cold Air Intake
Dynatech LT headers
Custom fabricated Y pipe
3” Magnaflow high flow catalytic converter
LT1 Mac Cat-back
Auburn Limited Slip Differential
Richmond 3.73 Gears
LT1 Ratech Complete Gear Installation kit
B&M Shiftplus shift kit
LT1 Hotchkis Strut Tower brace
Spohn Sway Bar Set
LT1 Edelbrock 58MM Throttle body
LT1 Rotoworks Slotted/drilled rotor package
HawkBrake Pads (front/rear)
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It needs a hot cam FTW

 

thats a pretty solid list for starting. after u get all that done, i agree with seth, hotcam and valvetrain upgrade

 

meaing it's already done to your mysteriously modded car, or that's what your getting? lol

 

i thought u already had headers. what was ur original modlist with that car?

 

The list looks pretty good, but...

You're going to need 2 high flow cats and they should both come directly off the collector of your headers so they can get hot enough to actually work, my car failed it's first pass at the emissions place because the cats had to get heated up, on the second test it passed the quick test...I would also save your money from the 58mm TB until you get a cam and heads on the car. You aren't going to get any HP from porting your intake and putting on a bigger TB until you're making at least 350+ RWHP and you won't get any substantial gains until around 400+ RWHP.

 

right now in my eyes the car is stock im just pretending like the loser before me didnt do squat (which is probably the case) all i have is the Trick Flow Intake Elbow and no cat. But yeah once i finish my intake/exhaust ill add the cam etc. stuff in there. but i was thinkin before i put any real power into the engine (ie internals) shouldnt i fortify the rear end and the valvetrain?

 

You can get away with the stock rear end for a little, if you get too much power have some money laying around so you can replace it at a moments notice if you grenade it. You should work on the valve train when you get your head/cam package worked out because the valves/springs etc. are all going to be determined by cam profiles and valve sizes in the heads. My recomendation is to get a fully assembled head, this way you get new valves, retainers, springs rated up to a certain lift/rpm etc. and then all you have to worry about is rockers. I was simply saying that you probably don't need to waste the money on a TB until you have internals and can actually use the extra flow.

 

ok so TB can wait. For internals i want the biggest/best ofeverything i can get thats safe for street use on a daily driver. Like i said when it comes time for internals im just gonna buy another engine (probably even a newer transmission) andput em into itthat way i can drive my car around while i work on the new engine.The place i take my auto class at has an LT1 that just randomly appeared and i talked myinstructorinto letting me work on it/clean it up and then at the end ofthe school year buy it off of them.