I have the pan bolts out and the timing cover off. But, how much play or how loose should the chain be? One side has more slack then the other, just wanted to know what an acceptable tolerance would be for this slack.

I also tried to rotate the assembly so I could position it at 1 TDC and couldn't get anything to move, what's easiest or best way to do this?

**EDIT** Ok dumb me! Couldn't I just put the center bolt back into the cam shaft and use my ratchet to turn it? lol

Also tried finding a new timing set, yet I can't find one that will work. All the reviews on the sets I believe will work say NOT for use with mechanical driven WP's....can someone help me out on a link to the proper product?

 

$135 at NAPA for a Cloyes timing set. Is this price the norm for sets or are there reliable sets for cheaper?

 

Need an answer, I'm unsure. Have two sets of edelbrock performer timing sets by Cloyes at advance. Says they are exact fit on the 94 lt1. However, one says for OEM hydraulic roller lifter cams only....and the other says NOT for OEM hydraulic roller lifter cams. This is a stupid question, but which one works for my stock z28? Parts numbers are 7800 and 7801 through advance auto.

Would it be alright to keep the same WP gear or should I also get a new one? That gear alone is as much as the whole timing set though! :/

 

stock lt1 has roller lifters.

 

alright well I decided against getting a new set. Mine isn't that bad to where it NEEDS replaced it was more of a do it while im there sort of thing. The WP shaft and gear would need replaced too and I don't have that extra cash. It should hold up just fine.

I have things lined up at 1TDC for when I install everything to make it easy. I have the sealing surfaces all cleaned and ready to go. Now I'm finishing up on cleaning the pan area and I'll be all done and ready to start piecing things back together.

 

you can have a new bearing put on the water pump drive gear. is there an issue with the one you have

 

Yea it's got a lot of play in it when I wiggle it. I was wondering how I could fix that without purchasing a whole new gear and drive...? Would the bearing be the only cause of the excessive movement in the gear and shaft or is the whole thing toast?

 

I was thinking, when I put the coupler and wp on the play won't be there. What signs of a bad bearing or shaft/gear would I look for. It looks ok actually appearance wise.

 

any play in the bearing

 

IDK how I would specifically check the bearing. There are two bolts, one on each side, of the gear. If I took those out would that allow me to just pull the shaft and gear out? If so, what would I be looking for as to how much play the bearing has? Just see if it seems sloppy or what?

Figured it out, I think it's fine.