The bypass decreases intake temps and increases emissions slightly, but nothing drastic that would cause emissions failure, let alone NOx testing.

It's been a while since I fixed my EGR issue, but I think I had roughly 15 Hg of suction.

There should be 12v going to the solenoid at all times.

 

Just tested it. It is sitting right around 18 at idle (tested it coming directly out of the engine) If I take one hose and go from there directly to the valve it doesn't do anything. If I push the diaphragm in then put my finger over the inlet it will stay open but I can't get it to open with suction.

I will say idle changes very slightly when I connect it (about what I would expect from stopping a vacuum leak) and I can feel the diaphragm shaking slightly. Think I should just go head and replace the EGR?

EDIT: Also when I rev it with my finger on the diaphragm it vibrates quicker but doesn't actually suck it in.

 

You could always cheat and throw a couple of gallons of methanol in the gas tank. This will usually slow combustion enough to lower NOx emission considerably.

 

It would be nice to have it running right though lol =)

Whats the difference between a EGR for an automatic and one for a stick?

 

Okay, this just made my night. Some of those idiots don't have clue.

 

If 18 Hg of suction isn't enough to open the valve then it must be a sticky valve or a leaking vacuum hose. 18 sounds spot on. I'll go measure mine later.

 

I was able to make it to O'Reillys just before they closed tonight (only place within 30mi that had one in stock) I'll update around 11 if I was successful.

If it isnt that I can honestly say I am at a loss. =(

 

The new EGR worked fine out of the car but it will not actuate in the car. The old one works fine out of the car as well.

This is running a hose from the engine directly to the EGR bypassing the solenoid.

I am lost. Ideas?

EDIT: Found this on another board

Look at the old EGR valve and see if it has a "N" (negative)or a "P" (positive) as the last digit in the part number.

If it has a N it should open while engine is running when applied vac and should make the engine stumble.

If it has a P than it wont let the EGR function, even with vac applied, until the ex. has enough backpressure. You can usually get it to work if someone covers the ex. tailpie and sits there for a few minutes.

Wish I saw that before dropping the 80 bucks lol. If nothing else it is 80 towards the $200 waiver.