Engine problems
#1
01-24-2019, 05:01 PM
Engine problems
Hi all,
I have a 96 Base Convertible (3.8 V6) that I just put a new fuel pump into (bought it not running due to the fuel pump). I started it up for the first time and drove it around for about 5 minutes. The temperature spike to just under the red zone and stalled if I took my foot off the gas. Is this something that could happen with a leak in the intake manifold? I can hear air leaking from the filter area and thought that could be it. Any suggestions?
I have a 96 Base Convertible (3.8 V6) that I just put a new fuel pump into (bought it not running due to the fuel pump). I started it up for the first time and drove it around for about 5 minutes. The temperature spike to just under the red zone and stalled if I took my foot off the gas. Is this something that could happen with a leak in the intake manifold? I can hear air leaking from the filter area and thought that could be it. Any suggestions?
#3
01-25-2019, 06:34 PM
Is there coolant in the coolant system? How does it look? Intake gasket failure is very common on the 3800. It is one of the engines biggest problems.
#4
01-25-2019, 11:50 PM
Theres definitely coolant. The dipstick doesn’t really make it easy to see the color. What should I be looking for if it is the intake gasket? And how hard is it to replace?
#5
01-26-2019, 10:59 AM
Well, it’s a new day and a new problem. When I put the engine in gear, I have to floor it for the car to even start moving. Thought it could be tranny fluid but there’s plenty in there. Thoughts?
—edit—
sat in my parking spot with selector in drive for about 5 mins. and when I went to reverse, it caught immediately, no high revs needed. So I’m assuming it’s a temperature based issue (once it reaches operating temp, it has no issues) but I’m still perplexed as to what it might be
—edit—
sat in my parking spot with selector in drive for about 5 mins. and when I went to reverse, it caught immediately, no high revs needed. So I’m assuming it’s a temperature based issue (once it reaches operating temp, it has no issues) but I’m still perplexed as to what it might be
Last edited by Jays; 01-26-2019 at 12:17 PM.
#6
01-26-2019, 10:08 PM
Transmissions that slip cold and work hot normally have hard seals When cold the seal allow fluid to pass them as they get warm they soften and work as they should. In this case you can try some trans medic. This may soften the seal. Either way the seals are going to tear at some point. At that point she is not going anywhere. The fix is a rebuild/replace of the trans.
#7
01-27-2019, 12:50 AM
Transmissions that slip cold and work hot normally have hard seals When cold the seal allow fluid to pass them as they get warm they soften and work as they should. In this case you can try some trans medic. This may soften the seal. Either way the seals are going to tear at some point. At that point she is not going anywhere. The fix is a rebuild/replace of the trans.
#8
01-27-2019, 09:36 AM
With the trans, do not try to drive it when it does not want to go. Let it warm up. If you drive it when its slipping it will wear out the clutches and there is no fix for that.
Step one is a coolant pressure test. Will the system hold pressure over time? Pump it up to 16 PSI and come back in a half an hour or so. If the pressure holds then do the thermostat and flush to coolant system. If not search youtube for "finding a coolant leak with a pressure tester", "checking a head gasket with a pressure tester" and "testing rad cap with a pressure tester." Most chain parts stores will let you borrow a pressure tester with a safety deposit that will be returned.
Hint: Since some system have been used by non-pros you want to spray soapy water on the tester and the hose to make sure the tester itself is not leaking.
Step one is a coolant pressure test. Will the system hold pressure over time? Pump it up to 16 PSI and come back in a half an hour or so. If the pressure holds then do the thermostat and flush to coolant system. If not search youtube for "finding a coolant leak with a pressure tester", "checking a head gasket with a pressure tester" and "testing rad cap with a pressure tester." Most chain parts stores will let you borrow a pressure tester with a safety deposit that will be returned.
Hint: Since some system have been used by non-pros you want to spray soapy water on the tester and the hose to make sure the tester itself is not leaking.
#9
01-28-2019, 02:55 PM
So, back to your original question... now that I had it running for a while I turned the rad cap a tiny bit to see if there was pressure... definitely was. Shot some nice warm coolant at me but thankfully I stepped out of the way. But I pulled the coolant dipstick to check if I needed to add fluid, but it looked like there was some kind of sludge on the dipstick, almost as if someone poured dust or mud in there. Should I flush the system a couple of times to try and clear it out and then see if that helps? Or is it too far gone to even try...
#10
01-28-2019, 03:06 PM
Just because a system holds some pressure does not mean it leak free or that it is holding enough pressure. Just a heads up, at 16 PSI that cap and blow out of your hand and 30-40 feet in the air and the coolant can explode out and burn anyone within 10ft. I never did find that friken cap and the left side of my face and my exposed arm looked like a lobbster.
The mud look is not uncommon with the orange antifreeze. It wall build up in the bottom of the rad. and stop coolant flow if it get bad enough. If its overheating at idle you need to be sure the fan is coming on and replace the thermostat.
The mud look is not uncommon with the orange antifreeze. It wall build up in the bottom of the rad. and stop coolant flow if it get bad enough. If its overheating at idle you need to be sure the fan is coming on and replace the thermostat.