people have put them In with the studs at the side of the bulbs the wrong way so the bulb is in the wrong way.

 

ok, I now have all of the correct bulbs in....geeez. also my auto trans gear shift lever will operate with the ignition off...possibly related?

 

try tilting the steering wheel all the way down and see what that does. then move it to differed\nt positions an see if anything changes

 

are you thinking it could be the turn signal switch. I THINK this all started when I replaced the clock spring recently. The car has been sitting for years so I am not positive when it started. I am going to replace the indicator switch and see what that does. What do you think about that. maybe, no way...

 

the wires in the column can get worn and the linkage to the shifter also goes through the column so when you adjust the wheel tilt it moves both around. if it changes how things are reacting then you have an idea where problem may be. tracking electrical issues can be a pain and be time consuming. you may want to take the wheel cover/wheel off to see if wires are looking bad or outa place.

 

That is great to know about the linkage! Also now I have noticed that the mirror lights are flickering when the cam shakes the car at idle. I'm gonna go out there and kick the crap out of that column a few times and see what happens, may ruffle some feathers.

 

OK, I'm making progress! The interior lights are fixed, I'm not going to tell you what it was...alright, it was my alarm, MY BAD! Now I have driver side turn signals and the passenger side front is VERY dim and the pass rear is not lighting at all. I think I read somewhere about this exact problem...I'll search but YOU probably know what it is, you know everything else ;P

 

be nice,,, its a 28 yr old car... almost a antique... make sure bulb is not burnt out and installed the right way. the bulbs have double filaments one for dim, parking lights, and one for bright, brake and blinker. also check the connection points inside the socket and make sure they are not corroded or damaged and check the socket itself for rust or crud. light has to ground to the socket wall. if you have a test light or volt meter test for power to the connection points also test for ground to the socket wall. be careful its easy to blow a fuse if you ground the test tool against the socket while testing for power.

 

alright I spoke too soon. Interior lights still on but IF I slam the door they go out...I got something lose on that side of the car, i can probably find that. Now for the blinkers, different flashers yield different results. Right now with the flasher I have in when I trip the left blinker it works fine, when I trip the right one the flashers all around flash and the dash light as well. Also remember the brake issue where the bell rings and the dash light comes on. When I disconnect the turn signal harness that stops but returns when I plug in a brand new turn signal switch...aarrrgggg! Thanks for your help man!!!

 

I just read this thread, and everything screams bad ground. There are three reasons I says this. One: I chased down electrical issues for about 7 years and my experience says it's a ground. Two: you have unrelated electrical circuit with issues. What do they have in common? I will bet they share a ground point. Three: When you slam the door it changes something. Classic lose ground issue.

As stated above if you had a body control module in your car, then it could be happening inside that. In 95 they did not.

When ground become lose or broken the power in on circuit is looking to get to ground, if it cannot go through nice clean ground it would feed into other circuits looking for a ground. Let say your brake lights are looking for ground because their ground is broken. They share a ground with a turn signal. Now the power is going backwards through the turn signal to get to the ground under the dash. It has to flow backwards through a bulb so that bulb now lights up. In many cases those light will be dim because of the distance and all the connections the power has to go through. Trying to predict what the symptoms are going to be based on which ground is bad will drive you crazy. I have seen cars with completely different issues have the same bad grounds. I have seen work orders filled with if this then that and when I do this that happens. It comes down to this, if you see two circuits that should be separate interacting with each other 95% of the time it is a ground issue. In some rare cases you have a light switch falling apart internally and have even seen cars recently out of the body shop with wiring harnesses melted together cause some pretty crazy things.

On cars that look good and feel tight that does not mean they are good. There could be corrosion inside the connector or rust between the ground and the body you cannot see. I have even seen a few times when the place that a wire was grounded to lost its ground due to a bolt coming lose that hold the bracket the ground was one.

Step one is to look up the ground on every system that is giving you an issue and clean and re-tighten it. Wiring diagram should give you a name of the ground and in the manual there should be a location section that will tell you where it is at.
There are some tricks to tracking down a bad ground but most require you to read a wiring diagram isolate circuits and draw test them. The problem with DIY people doing that is in many cases you are by passing the fuse and if you do not know what you are doing you can burn your car down. You overload a copper and it melts that 2000 degs.dripping in your car. If it hits anything other than metal it will catch fire. If that is inside your dash your best bet is to get the car out of the garage.