Maybe because I am not a Vet owner but in my opinion swaping a door looks way easier then glassing it like that. If you can swap in a door that is already painted this becomes a one day job. To lay that glass and repaint the door is a two weekend job. That is for me, I would think for someone new to body work and leveling a pannel, that swaping the door was 10x easier and he most likely has all the tools needed. Leveling and blending paint are two skills that can take years to get good at. Most guys will spend hours getting their first door adjustment right but they will get it. Worst case they take it somewhere and spend 50 bucks and gets in adjusted. The chances of him getting the door level and decent paint on it without any guidance are slim to nill. Please don't take offence Chaotic.

 

Yes swapping the doors is alot simpler and quicker than trying to make the repairs.

Massey

 

My grandfather was a collision repair specialist for 15 years. He knows what he's doing. I'm sure he'll help me if I ask.

 

Cam'69, I love the music in the vid lmao!!

 

Which is why I said I'd be tempted to replace the door if it was the same color. If it isn't the same, the inner perimeter of the door needs to get painted as well. And to avoid paint mis-matches, especially with a fade prone red family color, the whole side of the car should get painted. Just doing the door, and you stand a good chance of having it stand out like a sore thumb. With patching it, you can paint the lower portion of the door below the moulding, and it will be much less conspicuous since it's blending with a smaller area. Yeah, my past experiences with restoring Vettes helps, but it still should be a weekend job (or less) to go from fix to paint for someone who hasn't worked with glass before. That job could get knocked out in one day, if you've done that kind of work before. And he can putz around with it while still driving the car if he needs to. All I'm saying is what I would do, Chaotic needs to decide what he's capable of on his end.

 

Well I really believe that I could fill in the gouge. It's not all the way through btw. And I know my grandpa could help me. He has paint guns and all kinds of stuff. If I were to repair it, I would paint the entire side of the car between the wheels under the body line. That would be the least noticeable repair. That body line is a natural shadow grabber and people wont catch the difference if I paint from that body line down on the whole side of the car. Right?

 

Always fade your spot jobs in, Never stop at a body line or a part seam. You want to fade the paint 6-12 inchs (depending on how good the match is) and the clear another 12-18 past the color fade. In class they show you how to fade even paints that do not match well so a regular persone can not tell. Show car painters and judges will see it but most car guys will not.

I have not worked a lot with the urethane but I was under the impression that as long as the clear coat is intact the base coat should not fade much. In most case vertical pannels should see very little fading. There was a company that sold already painted pannels over the net that stated that and you could return any pannel that did not match.

 

Ugh you're killin me here lol

 

Fading paint is fine, but blending metallics are more of a p.i.t.a. Is yours a solid or metallic color Chaotic? And it's only a gouge? The job just got easier, as you don't need to get inside the door to do any reinforcing.

 

His color is metallic and the repair if done properly will require the whole door to be painted and the fender and qtr to be blended in. Also you will need to clear the whole side of the car not just a few inches away.

Massey