^ That's the point I was making. You would have to know how to handle the hydraulics to replace the clutch. His is a 2000, and I'm fairly positive his is an internal slave as well. He's just getting jacked around because he didn't buy the parts from them. Sounds like he's getting the typical "it's not our problem" response from them.
You know how mechanics like to pass the buck!!

 

Try pumping the clutch pedal about 100 times in a row. It will build up your left leg, and if you are lucky it may just force any air bubbles out of where they should't be. It works on the 'W" body cars, and might just work on yours.

 

^ I've done that on our Jeep (a little less than 100 times). Clutch would disengage, then pedal would get mushy again. It turned out to be a bad clutch master cylinder, even though the previous owner replaced it not too far back. Your problem could be a coincidence, but you might want to ask them how they replaced your clutch without messing with the hydraulics? Maybe they kinked something if they tried to half-*** the job.

 

hmmm ok thanks for the help guys, i have a mechanic that i usually go to that does most of my cars, should have taken it to him for sure cuz if there was a problem with it he would have it back up on the rack the next day. BUT i was impatient and took it somewhere else cuz he was swamped.

also the ls1tech guys said there is a shim that comes with the kit that sometimes needs to be used. still tryin to figure out if that could be the problem.

 

this is exactly why no matter how much of a PITA the job is, i always do it myself. No one to blame but me and save 600$