Could have gotten all of that cheaper, summit or AutoZone $30 bump stops
Heater hoses adapters ebay $30 and the hose form AutoZone $6.

 

Well... Had some delays getting to it because wife's vehicle decided to break down so had to deal with that. Anyway, I am in the middle of it. Exhaust manifolds are off. Without a doubt those heat shields are the absolute worst thing about this whole project... It basically took me a whole day to get them all off (well I was so frustrated by the end that I called it a day... after many hours of ridiculousness). The nuts were basically so rusty that they were just round and welded to the stud... it just sucked...

Valve covers are off. They leaked so badly, I actually think it helped keep the exhaust manifold bolts lubricated because they came right out (and most had oil on them).

Heater hoses are off, EXCEPT I don't know how to get that single torx screw off that holds the bracket to the wheelwell... I can just leave it and cut the rubber hoses off a the bracket, but what about the other side where the metal hoses come out...? I can't really fit anything in there to cut the two lines... Any suggestions about getting that screw out or how best to cut the lines?

The REAL reason I am writing this post now is I would like to change the oil pan and gasket since it is dented in quite a bit and appears to be leaking a lot too (this thing leaks so much I really don't know where it all is coming from, lol). Since the y-pipe is gone, I have access to nearly all the bolts. HOWEVER, my manual says to replace the pan I basically have to take apart most of the front end - including, the crossmember, lower shocks/struts, motor mounts, etc... I don't have a compressor, impact tools, or an engine hoist. Is this something that can be reasonably done? I have the gasket just in case.

I am going to be putting the headers, valve covers, and heater hoses back on today, then will be changing the tranny fluid, filter, and gasket.

I will fill in more details later, but for now, PLEASE can anyone advise about that oil pan? If I am going to do, now is the time - before the y-pipe gets welded back in. THANK YOU!

 

i know a couple guys on here have done the pan gasket without lifting the engine. i lifted the engine as far as it would go, unbolted at the motor mounts. also had to take the crossmember lose to get that extra inch. i would look at the intake, lt1 intake is known for failing front and or rear intake seal.

 

Thanks. I think I may give it a try. I am just worried that I get it as high as I can, then open up the pan and it still catches on something. I have no plan B for that... Because the way it looks, its more than just a rectangular gasket... I will never just be able to put the pan back on without it leaking worse.

Anyway, about that intake. It runs perfect and gets great gas mileage, so I really don't want to add another project because I am in pretty deep right now; HOWEVER, I took all the plastic intake stuff off to get to the EGR stuff to get the valve cover off, and couldn't help but notice that the bottom of the metal grate of the intake where it connects to plastic intake is a bit sticky and brown... Is that a sign of something, or just 16 years of gunk buildup? Thanks again

 

ahh you have 3.8, check your oil pressure sensor, they have been known to crack and leak pretty bad. im assuming the 3.8 pan is probly just as hard as a lt1. i had to turn the motor over to get the crank to the right position to let pan come out without hitting the counter balances.

 

Borda Adjustable cat-back -- sounds great on my RS.

Camaro v6 1998-2002 Cat-Back Exhaust part # 14813

 

Penetrating Oils Compared - ZZP News

ATF-Acetone mixed -- MUCH more effective! Or Liquid Wrench is better than PB Blast.

 

Transition on to poly bumpstops will be more jarring than the OEM style, which is why I stuck with OEM.

 

Heater hoses, valve covers, and headers are on (that whole thing just SUCKED!!). EVERYTHING fought me, lol... Then there were 3 manufacturer defects with the headers:
1) middle 2 holes in the drivers side header gasket were in the wrong place...
2) The threads for the 4 long bolts (2 each) that attach the y-pipe to the headers were awful. It was like cross-threading the whole way (deep well needed)... Went on fine til top of nut then it was try to wedge a wrench and use both arms to get 1/4 turn... was ridiculous...all 4 of them... If i wasn't so far from town, would have just gotten new bolts with lock washers.
3) the hole where the metal EGR tube goes into the header isn't deep enough. Have to cut the end of the male EGR tube so it will fit into the header...

With that said, I would NOT recommend Pacesetter headers. I would GLADLY of paid another $150 to avoid the frustration and time loss due to the 3 defects. Not to mention the ENTIRE exhaust manifold removal was very difficult to begin with. The extra frustration was not welcomed...

I am NOT doing the oil pan or gasket. And though I SHOULD do the intake gasket to fix the oil leaks, I just do not have the will to do it at this point...

I have another question to do with the exhaust. I am about to install my magnaflow catback system; however, I noticed that on my exhaust there is a downstream O2 sensor BEHIND the current cat (well its cut out now). The new y-pipe has a port for an O2 sensor, but it is BEFORE the cat - which is more than a foot away, the wires won't reach... The magnaflow pipe has NO port for the O2 sensor... Where does the downstream O2 sensor go?

I think I am going to DELETE the cat from this system. Does that come in to play...? Thanks again everyone for your input!!

 

should be an 02 sensor on each side. some headers you have to look to make sure it has the down stream bung hole for the 02. exhaust will have a nasty rasp to it without a cat