also- if i run the car and it IS clogged, what parts would i risk blowing under the pressure build up?

 

update- drove 67 miles and took 6.29 gallons so im at 10.65 mpg, gettin there!

changed the coolant temperature sensor today more results coming soon

 

while you are on with the sensors have you checked the IAT (intake air temp sensor??) just a thought as fueling also runs from this

 

If the car is running there is no risk. A car will not run with over 3psi back pressure.

 

i see... i should have also mentioned that when i pulled the coolant temp sensor, it had delphi stamped on it so im assuming that was the original one?

the IAT is the one that sticks into the air lid, right?

thx 4 the speedy replies

 

keep in mind the muffler can also be plugged.

 

how would one un plug it?

 

sometimes the cat can go to pieces and the pieces get clogged in the muffler. not really a way to unplug, could try unhooking it (open the exhaust) and see what happens. if you notice a return to a normal operating motor you will know its time for new muffler. how old is the exhaust and cat?

 

it seems almost everything is original

 

tested the MAF with the volt meter set on Hz. at idle the numbers are hopping around 100, and when revving it , it goes 200-300 very very fast then falls back to 100 immeadeately, sounds right?

i saw this and according to it, my MAF is no good being that it was spiking like crazy.

Testing the MAF Signal of the Mass Airflow Sensor!


Now that the basics have been checked, we'll check the MAF signal coming out of the sensor and going to the ECM with a multimeter. Here's how to do it...
Start the engine and let it reach it's normal operating temperature. You'll be using the Voltage reading you will obtain at idle as a base to diagnose the MAF Sensor.
The MAF Sensor must be connected to its connector to perform this test.

1. With the key in the OFF position.
2. With a suitable tool connected to the RED multimeter lead, probe the B circuit of the MAF Sensor connector shown in the photo.
3. Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode.
4. Connect the BLACK lead to the Battery (-) Negative Terminal.
5. Start the already warmed up engine.
6. Note the Volts reading on your multimeter at idle. This reading may be stable (with only small fluctuations) or unstable with very extreme fluctuations. No matter what the instability in the reading, this will be your base reading.
7. Accelerate the engine as you watch the multimeter's Voltage readings.
8. The Voltage numbers should correspond to the amount of acceleration.
9. Repeat this as often as you need to verify that the Voltage numbers on the multimeter rise smoothly every single time.
10. If the MAF Sensor is good, these readings will not spike up and down crazily but will correspond to the amount of air the engine is breathing at the different RPMs you're accelerating the engine to.

Did the signal rise smoothly with each increase in engine acceleration and stay steady at idle?

• YES- The MAF Sensor is functioning correctly.
• NO- The MAF Sensor is defective. Replace MAF Sensor