You are really complicating things for yourself. The dip stick in the transmission does not show the temperature, it only shows the fluid level. You first have to fully warm up the engine and transmission. Since the transmission takes longer to reach the working temperature than the engine, it is best to drive the car for at least 1/2 hour before checking the transmission fluid. Then, with the engine running and the transmission in park, the fluid level should be at the hot mark on the dip stick.

 

Alright your saying once I drive for a half hour take the stick out then If the fluid at the hot mark there Is enough but If It Isnt on the hot mark I need to add more fluid Is that correct. Then as far as the oil what would you reccomend. People were saying not to use 5w 30. But thats what the dip stick for the engine oil said.

 

Well you say that they are the same but obviously I am asking this thread to find out what to use.

 

You where told in the first post to use 10W 40. You when said "do you mean 10w30". He would not have said 10w30 because "the reason I gave" You ask a question then you want to correct the people who answer them.
It takes two seconds to search Youtube for any how to video. It takes 3 minutes to read your owners manual don't come here ask a basic question then argue about the answer.

 

You didnt have to spaz.

 

Don't use 10w40. I would just stick with 5w30. 5w30 is supposed to be thinner at startup than a 10w30 but about the same at full operating temps. Different brands differ more in viscosity but with the same brand, 5w30 will be a tad thinner than a 10w30 at full operating temps. A 5w40 and 10w40 are thicker. There is no reason to move to a thicker oil unless you are really feeling power loss due to a lack of compression which I doubt. You probably have a film build up on your walls and slightly worn piston rings which would naturally cancel out and give a tight fit. If you run a harsh cleaner through your engine and your car is trying to choke down, then ok, run a thicker oil. For now, I would just stick with the 5w30. 160,000 isn't that many miles.

As far as ATF, I would love to hear a testimony on someone who has run one with less friction modifiers like a type F. Or at least 1/3 Type F and 2/3 regular. I just hate that the friction modifiers end up causing wear on the clutch plates.

 

what im not understanding is how can you not understand your dipsticks? Have you ever checked any kind of fluids in a vehicle at all before this? I am the first to admit i don't know much about the interior working of a motor but at least I know how to read a dipstick...

Owners manuals for any/all vehicles will state somewher ein there to run the vehicle and then check the level of fluid. And those little cross hatch sections on the stick between cold and hot.. yeah somewhere in there, there is a line and on that line it says add. Which means if it below that line, you ADD fluid. Anything above that line it is fine. As for the tempurature thing.. your stick don't tell you the temp of the fluid.. only where the fluid is sitting.

And to add to this: Gorn wasn't spazzing. You were arguing with people who know what they are talking about on a subject that you don't know anything about obviously.

The different oil weights (thats what the w in 5w stands for) is for different times. I was always told in summer and spring its better to run a lighter oil 5w and in the colder months a thicker oil.

Though I could have that *** backwards.. eitherway I run 10w all year round. saves on my own personal confusion. As I was told by both my brothers - mobil1, valvoline and castrol are good oils. Royal purple is the best but its not normally used for daily drivers.. mostly for race motors. I run straight synthetic through all my vehicles and i find it is better then reg oil.

 

I put the 10w 30 In I will get a oil change though then.

 

ok this may be really stupid of me to say. ive done plenty of oil changes before but never noticed a difference in any brand even the cheapo store brands. i agree with going thicker ie 10w40.

so why is it that your a fan of castrol gtx and what has brought you to this conclusion? i have heard most people stick with like mobile 1...i was just wondering because if you know something i dont (which most likely you do) please enlighten me so i can take better car of my vehicles

 

Even though you don't feel it on the butt dyno doesn't mean there isn't a difference. On more expensive oil the the oil sticks better to the moving parts of your engine keeping them better lubricated. Lookup the royal purple vs other oil vid on YouTube.