ABS INOP and ASR OFF lights on dash
#1
ABS INOP and ASR OFF lights on dash
Alright everyone, i have searched this forum, along with others to try and find the answer to this question, but nothing is helping...
Both lights are on, all my bulbs are good and work, pads are new, no burnt fuses, brakes work fine, little shaky when i slam on them, but seems like ABS is working because tires do not lock up, and traction control is not on because the car will smoke the tires no problem.
The rotors look and feel new with no grooves in them, so I do not think they are warped. I can feel the pedal jump a bit when i slam on the brakes too. It does pull slightly to one side (left) when I apply brakes regularly.
Both lights are on, all my bulbs are good and work, pads are new, no burnt fuses, brakes work fine, little shaky when i slam on them, but seems like ABS is working because tires do not lock up, and traction control is not on because the car will smoke the tires no problem.
The rotors look and feel new with no grooves in them, so I do not think they are warped. I can feel the pedal jump a bit when i slam on the brakes too. It does pull slightly to one side (left) when I apply brakes regularly.
#3
Could also be a bad wheel sensor, bad wire connection to a sensor, a bad harness, or a bad harness connection between points a & b...
Generally, when the ABS Inop light is on, it means there is a fault somewhere with the system, and the ABS is not functional. Take the car on a road with some loose gravel and jam on the brakes to see if the ABS really does kick in. My "guess" is it's with one of the sensors or a connection to it, since that's what monitors/controls both the ABS and traction control. Your car can be scanned, with the right scanner, for ABS issues. And it would be either an electrical or hydraulic issue, not mechanical (brake pads, worn rotor, etc.).
Generally, when the ABS Inop light is on, it means there is a fault somewhere with the system, and the ABS is not functional. Take the car on a road with some loose gravel and jam on the brakes to see if the ABS really does kick in. My "guess" is it's with one of the sensors or a connection to it, since that's what monitors/controls both the ABS and traction control. Your car can be scanned, with the right scanner, for ABS issues. And it would be either an electrical or hydraulic issue, not mechanical (brake pads, worn rotor, etc.).
#4
I was told by the previous owner that he had the dealership run the code on the chassis, and mentioned that the lights were due to an 800.00 part. I talked to a Corvette specialist and he told me it sounded like the brain is bad. He told me it is 1000 bucks for a vette, and 800 for a camaro. Sounds like everyone is pointing to the same thing, so I am actually trying to figure out what the "brain" is.
#5
mine was the brain or controler. had one go on my truck and took it to the shop to get it done. dont have the special tools needed to install. it was about 700 bucks.
Last edited by craby; 07-03-2010 at 03:25 PM.
#6
Get your car scanned -- any ABS Codes?
I replaced my ABS Motor pack on my '95 which got rid of the code (easy replacement), and later found I had a caliper on the way out with a fused bleeder screw -- probably contributed to the ABS failure...
I replaced my ABS Motor pack on my '95 which got rid of the code (easy replacement), and later found I had a caliper on the way out with a fused bleeder screw -- probably contributed to the ABS failure...
#8
Ask the shop to provide you with the flow-chart for troubleshooting the code(s) they find (especially since you are paying for their diagnosis) -- it should narrow down the problem pretty well, and they should tell you what they think it is.
#9
Well, as I stated before, the ABS and ASR lights were on, so I started asking around and had a friend who works for GM plug the computer in and found out the brain in the ABS controller was bad. I got on eBay and started looking for gently used controllers. Since the controller itself is a PIA to change unless you have the computer GM uses to bleed the box, I did one of the simplest fixes. Just take the "brain" off using a T20 torx bit and simply replaced it. Reset the computer by leaving the battery disconnected for 2 minutes, and now it works perfect with no lights!
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