I just took my battery to Autozone to get tested and it wasnt reading anything...they said it either is bad or it is completly dead.. I have to wait an hour if it charges its good if not its a bad battery...still under 6month warranty. fingers crossed

 

Very true, I didn't think about the fact that the battery can become a load on the system.

 

Ok, so I didn't expect the battery to be the problem but it seems that it was after all. I got the car going but I am still skeptical about it. First of all at Autozone they told me the battery was bad & doesnt hold a charge, so I went to where I purchased the battery to replace it but they told me it was still good & they began to charge it...they also told me that the dead battery wouldn't shut down the car that it is the alternator????? So after an hour of charging I picked up the battery and installed it & as if nothing ever happened the car started right up, but now Im afraid this might happen again?

 

if the battery is bad you will find out. better get some jumper cables or a jumper box. i would say you have an intermitant issue and it may have been a poor connection or failing alternator or bad battery or short.

 

Still having problems... Thought it was fixed but it happened again, it shut off while at a red light & shortly after a few attempts to start it up all the electrical went out.( happened before but it started back up) I have been researching and it seems to have a short but the videos Ive seen say you recharge your battery and the next day it wont start, but mine starts but seems to shut off while driving whenever it wants. Its seems to me its during hard acceleration???

 

are you noticing what the volts are when it dies? is it running now?

 

I left it parked 2 days...it started up strong high voltage above the 1/2 way mark, then I drove it.....afterwards I tried to start it up again & it is dead again...electricity drained & started clicking while cranking then dead again!? I've researched it & it could be my ICM? A short? Or the battery which I'm getting tested again right now??

 

i would say you either have a short, bad connection, a sensor or motor failing and eating up power faster than the alternator can make it or the alternator is going. could be a combination of any.

 

Measure charging voltage at two places,
alt BATT stud and across the battery posts, both should be within 0.5 volt.
If battery is alot less than alternator, then I would check the physical condition of the fusible link at starter solenoid post for an open between the alt BATT stud and positive battery post.
Another item to check os the cleaniness of the battery terminals to the battery posts - remove and wire brush them, reattach.
Connect a test light between a battery terminal and post. Light should have a faint glow signifying current demanded by the ECM and radio, this is normal. I would then suspect a bad battery, since you said the dash voltmeter was over halfway.
If bright, or brighter than dim, then a drain is present. You'll have to look for it.
Pull fuses one at a time, disconnect any aftermarket devices, and sometimes, it could be a misaligned glovebox door not turning the light. View the car at night to look for lights left on and are not suppose to be on.

 

Heck I bought a brand new battery before from Harbor battery, a local battery shop, and that was a bad one. Imagine the trouble shooting not even thinking it could be the battery that was creating the problems.