Title: 4th gen. coolant leak in or around timing chain cover is very labor intensive....

This is more declarative or information than any question. I have a coolant leak on or around the timing chain cover which means this autopart has to be disassembled and then reassembled to get to where my car is leaking coolant.

There is always coolant in the radiator, except it leaks too much down the skinny coolant reservoir.

My 1993 4th Gen. with 136,000 mi., has really no other problems.

This car was lifted and looked at, it would be unethical not to spend so much time without doing a pressure test.

It leaked from the bottom right

It gets for me close to last white range which could be 230; the white stick below all the orange ones. i don't know what number is that since i had a tbi tramatic brain injury....260 is the top and i am at the last white part in the attached pic probably 230 after driving 10 miles in 70 degree Southern California weather. It fluctuates, it just stays at like 230 on the temp guage 2-4 times in 10 miles of day driving in aforesaid climate.

Is this normal temperature I mean up in the 230 zone is kind of scary rright?

my car btw has never ever overheated.

Been topping it off coolant when I was recently told it's normal for it to be 8 ounces down and not topped off in fact there's a dip stick in it.

Both repair shops I used some type of sealant in my radiator which I was told recently can ruin the engine.

One repair shop told me since the coolant leak is near the timing chain cover and that has to be opened up, the cost is $800 which includes labor, this is very labor intensive work--it must take an entire full day.

Here's the good educational part: I have Attached hereto: 2 photos of botth the timing chain cover and the temp gauge.

THE TIMING CHAIN COVER IN THE ATTACHED PIC IS FOR A FORD F 150; 3.4LITER ENGINE; THAT'S MY ENGINE A 3.4L (couldn't find one for a Camaro)

if you want any useful constructive comments and answers or advice would be much appreciated.

thanx for ur time. *Two (2) Thumbnail Attachments Hereto

 

Adding temp gauge photo.

It didn't go thru (or post) for some reason

I am at 230 in 45 minutes- 1 hour of driving in 70 deg Fahr. daytime

and it's at 230 only 3-5x versus the 6 to 9 times before

a cracked plastic radiator cap was replaced with a metal one made in Mexico
and a coolant temp sensor was replaced which activates the cooling fans.

we're in agreement that the timing chain cover and coolant leaking from this same spot is very expensive and labor-intensive.

something as minor as cracked coolant res., damaged radiator or broken water pump are the 1st obvious things looked at by any certified mechanic, the easy ones are ruled out first.

so after a pressure test it's a timing chain cover coolant leak, pricey at $800

i have been informing my 2 go-to repair shops that are highly qualified about how important it is for me to fix this

I think after this major $800 repair, I will get an upgrade to a 2007 Ford Mustang

I have owned 2 different Camaro's in my life and the gorgeous Swiss Flag running down the middle of the Camaro, Mr. Chevrolet's country of origin which is similar to the blue white and red French flag of which Mr. Chevrolet speaks the language and emigrated from Switzerland

will have to be replaced in like 2-4 yrs after I get more action out of it.

it has no body damage and is red, not two-toned but entirely red and relatively low mileage at 135k miles.

no other signs of lurking problems

some even say hey u know since u already dismantled and put together the timing chain cover, a big amount of work, you might as well replace the water pump since if that goes bad, guess what, you'd have to have 800 bucks of labor (YET AGAIN) to get to the water pump which is very near the timing chain cover.

here is the attachment, notice the last White Line, that's where I am assuming is at the 230 mark just before the red or orange zones, too close for comfort in my opinion

But, it may be freakin natural for a 1993 a 23 year old some odd car to be getting those high temp's so it's normal? to be at 230 after 45 minutes or 1 hour (10- 15 miles) of daytime driving during the hot So. Cal sun for like 3 to 5 x (times) then lower to the middle point on the temp guage. Note all my driving and the consequent temp gauge readings are read while i am surface street driving, meaning on the streets with stop lights traffic lights stop signs bumper to bumper rush hour traffic, etc., the motor and accompanying temp readings would be much cooler on the hghwy, but legally i cannot drive on highways right now

thanx again.

hopefully this and my other threads was a learning experience for some or all Camaro enthusiasts.

i am going to quit some big vices after a relaxing binge after all these repairs God, been with this cooling problem for the last 2 months at least.

what i'd give to drive the Camaro for a year withOut a sign of Any problems.

maybe I can get a Hurst Spokeswoman Linda Vaughn look-a-like in my CamBigCat passenger seat and show her off at the malt shop or the Barona 1/8 mile drags? LoL

 

here it is again: temp gauge photo on a 93 camaro

notice what i am referring in the above 2 posts at a 230 reading is the little less than a full line below the last numbered line of 260

appearing at that spot 6-9 times in 1 hour of surface street (no highway driving) driving may be cause for concern *but when it is less like: 3-5 x and then it goes back to the middle point on the temp gauge for 1 hour of surface street 70 deg. Fahr. daytime driving may be normal for a 23 yr old car like my 1993 Camaro.

 

my z28 I bought with 69.000 miles for the first 6 years all that went was the water pump ,it was sweet so it owed me nothing when I did the 406, 3 more years now will be even again At 200.00 per month for a mussle car ,cant own a new one for that ,I almost got an 09 mustang gt 500 look a like white an blue was sharp ,had the 4.6l ,it was 19000.00 out the door

 

UPDATE: THE 2ND ONE NUMBERED BELOW: IS THE COST TO SEAL THE COOLANT LEAK,

THE 1ST ONE I WAS INFORMED IS SMOKE COMING OUT OF THE TAIL PIPE UPON 1ST STARTING THE CAR WHICH COMES FROM THE INTAKE AND CAN TOTALLY DESTROY THE ENGINE, I WONDER HOW LONG I CAN LAST WITH THAT, BUT AM TAKING CARE OF BOTH PROBLEMS IN 2 MONTHS FROM NOW:

1) Labor Service- reseal upper intake manifold $209.00
NEW MS93020 INTAKE MANFLD ST / Engine Intake Manifold Qty: 1, Price: $51.56
NEW 130-1750 WATER PUMP / Engine Water Pump Qty: 1, Price: $75.31

2) Labor Service – remove timing cover and reseal. Replace water pump as well if customer desires to pay (parts only for water pump) $712.50

NEW TCS45827 TIMING COVER ST / Engine Timing Cover Gasket Set Qty: 1, Price: $31.31
Parts: $151.18
Labor: $921.50
Subtotal: $1,079.68
Sales Tax: $12.65
Total: $1,092.33

 

p.s. that's at an ASE certified more experienced mechanic that I spoke about who charges 95 bucks an hour labor, versus the other guy who has less experience at 80 bucks an hour labor.

 

When the intake manifold is resealed, the car should sit/not be started for 24 hours to allow seal to "set" or u could experience de ja vue. Is he gonna put new gasket on intake? Or just reseal? Anyways the labor is a tad bit high but if he/she stands behind their work it's cool a water can last 100 k. Is your ride LT1 or 3.4 or 3.8 as the v6 seems to be easier to work on....good luck & be careful/baby your ride till it's repaired

 

it's a v6, 3.4 Liter. I will just park the car at his shop for 24 hrs extra then pick it up a day later. thanks. this is very helpful so I have time.

 

if you havent yet, download the factory service/shop manual, go here and click 93firebird svc man https://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti

 

thanks, Craby