Want to take the fuel injection off and put on a carb. How?
#11
Do you want performance or do you think you have a collectors car? If the former, then get rid of that 305
If the latter, then collectors don't want your hack job. They want a restored vehicle and that means restored interior and exterior as well. Otherwise, the "value" you have in mind is just a fable as it's just another hacked car.
sooooooooo, which do you want, performance or a vehicle you're going to restore, put away and hope it's worth something some day?
#12
Sounds like alot of bad to get a little bit more out of the 305. I might just go ahead with the 383 build then, I'll be platen some pictures along the way if I can figure out how to upload them from an iphone
#13
now you're driving up the costs a bit more. But, if you're starting with a bare block and must invest in machine work then why not get it clearanced and bored and build a stroker?
If you are looking to reduce the budget and want to re-use some items then stick with a 350 and just get it bored .030 over to be fresh and re-use some items unless of course you want to go hog wild and get forged everything
#14
I dont know, I will never sell this car, Sooooo I guess if I like my own hack job it would be just fine. As far as a 383 summit offers a bare block that's already been machined for a stroker. That's where I plan to begin with a build for a 383. I want to put everything together myself simply because I enjoy it, I have the time for it, and I'll know that every nut/bolt is correctly tourqed, as well as know what every part that went into the engine is. Yes I know it's an expensive. Which is ok. But anyway, thanks for the advise. I think I'll just tinker with the heads on the 305 and put a cam in while I build the 383 for it.
#15
it's not that simple
why oh why do people not think about their desires prior to buying a vehicle.
You can't simply will away reality
You are not going to put a cam and heads on a TBI 305 without paying through the teeth to try and get a PROM created for it. You can't just buy one on line. It's a supply and demand thing. There was never much demand at the outset and now, 20+ years later there is even less. You are going to pay $300- $500 to achieve success of programming. In the end, you would have gone through all of the cost and effort of heads ,cam and programming to reach the performance of a Honda minivan.
My suggestion, stop the silliness, slap on headers and an open element air cleaner and start saving your pennies. Then, when you have a few $thousand you can decide to swap in a good engine and transmission or sell the car and get a newer one.
Unless you spend $thousands replacing the interior, weatherstripping and bodywork/paint; you stand no chance of recovering even 50% of what you will spend should you decide to sell.
#16
Oh yes, I do plan on redoing the car nicely. I understand that it will cost more than what I would get for resale after complete. This is going to be my baby though. And I'll be extra proud knowing that I brought her back from the grave. I expect to spend somewhere around 15,000 by the time it's complete. I already got 800 tied up with just the front suspention and about another grand to go for it to be totally perfect to me. The motor swapping is still very much in the air so to speak, I'll make that fork in the road after all the suspension is updated. But for now I'm just toyen with the ideas about the motor.
Because what good is a bunch of pony's sitten on sloppy suspension? If it don't hook up and you can't control the power why have it?
I agree souped up 305 is close to being out of the picture because of cost reasons, and I'll never be able to sell that motor for even 1/4 of what I'll have to put in it.
Because what good is a bunch of pony's sitten on sloppy suspension? If it don't hook up and you can't control the power why have it?
I agree souped up 305 is close to being out of the picture because of cost reasons, and I'll never be able to sell that motor for even 1/4 of what I'll have to put in it.
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