Take the cable off the carb and pull it. Is there a good amount of spring tension or does it feel loose? It could have come disconnected from the plunger in the transmission.

Get a picture of your linkage setup. Also stop driving it.

 

Lockup Retrofit Kit
Yes it will cost more than simply hot-wiring it. But it saves you the trouble of remembering to switch it on and off. If you rarely use overdrive, and barely ever need to lock it up, then I would probably go with a simple switch too. Just be sure not to have it locked up in anything but 4th gear cruising. The locking feature isn't meant to handle the torque given from lower gear driving, so you could wind up breaking your torque converter.

 

its definitely hooked up inside the trans
i can pull the cable an let go then hear it tap inside trans when it retracts back n bottoms

my linkage is propetrly setup with the matched edelbrock adapter brackets and so on.

the distance the cable moves when wot occurs on the edelbrock carb is exactly the same as when it was tbi

 

neither i nor anyone else can figure it out


ive had others drive it and they agree it shifts great but no kick down

i have been downshifting myself to make up for no kick down

 

You're not trying to make it downshift while the t.c. is still locked up, are you?

 

i did this swap a while back. i was unable to get the tranny to shift correctly by adjusting the cablew the manufactures way at all. if the tranny shifts hard then it is not adjusted right. i ended up playing with mine till i got the stock smooth shifts. after i did that it downshifted correctly.

 

but with mine it shifts good but no down shift.
\
i think the little piston the cable pulls on is sticking while im taking off cus once in a whuile it does kick down but its rare maybe happen 2-3 times total.

im gonna disconect the cable let it retract in then start it up n drive like 50 ft maybe get it to break loose.

 

still no kick down at cruising speed while taking off slow i can get it to kick down by flooring it.

new question. im adding a cam.

Brand
COMP CamsManufacturer's Part Number
12-256-4Part Type
CamshaftsProduct Line
COMP Cams Xtreme Energy CamshaftsSummit Racing Part Number
CCA-12-256-4

Cam Style
Hydraulic flat tappet

Basic Operating RPM Range
1,200-5,200

Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift
212

Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift
218

Duration at 050 inch Lift
212 int./218 exh.

Advertised Intake Duration
256

Advertised Exhaust Duration
268

Advertised Duration
256 int./268 exh.

Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.449 in.

Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.456 in.

Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.449 int./0.456 exh.

liftLobe Separation (degrees)
112Intake

Valve Lash
0.000 in.

Exhaust Valve Lash
0.000 in.

Computer-Controlled Compatible
Yes

Grind Number
CS XE256H-12

along with comp cam hydro flat tappet lifters with proform pushrods
and with new 350 vortec heads
running the holley street dom intake an 600cfm edelbroc carb with hei

what should i set my timing at?

 

oh yea. i have chance to buy flowmaster full 3in exhaust from headers back with muffler same setup as stock just bigger for $100

or should i just run stock exhaust minus the cat with a flowmaster super 44

 

I would get the trans down first before anything else, or you run a high risk of burning the clutches up and will have 5x the money as your cam change will cost. There are a bunch of good articles on setting up the TV cable that gives examples, pics, etc. You mentioned that you have the edelbrock TV adapter, are you using an edelbrock carb?

It is easy to mess the TV adjust up. It took me awhile to get it right, but I refused to drive the car at all until I was convinced it was perfect. I have a Hughes built 700-R4 that I just couldn't afford to mess up in under 100 miles. The TV does more than just kickdown, it regulates pressure as well. That is why it is so much more important to get dialed in than say an old ford C4.

As far as torque converter lock up, I still retain my computer and nearly all the original connections, although I had a carb motor to start with. If I feel even 1% uncertain its doing what it needs to, I would go with the aftermarket kit. There are a bunch of good companies that make the kit and it is very easy to install.

As far as the rest, I would call the cam manufacturer and tell them exactly what you have, CID, Comp. Ignition system, etc, and they should be able to give you idle and advance #'s. Make sure the Cam you get is the one that will work with the heads, intake, and exhaust or you might not get the bang for the buck you expect.