hey all, im new to the whole forum thing so please bare with me. i have a 1992 RS and i bought it from a friend who has only had it for about 2 weeks. heres the problem. when i try to turn on the heat or the AC nothing happens. when i start the engine and everything is running i turn it on and i hear something but nothing happens. no air even comes out of the vents. further more i looked under the hood and 2 lines are cut. a friend said it ran to my heater core. he also said something about anti freeze being able to dump into my interior? but yeah. as you can see im vary lost and not sure about the next step. if its an easy fix ill do it if its extensive i would much rather pay to get it done. just need some help before the snow falls.

 

sounds lke the heater core was leaking and someone bypassed it rather than replace it... this could get into detail... you may have to tear the dash out to replace it, but i would have to look it up to be sure. As far as nothing happening when you turn on the heat or a/c ...it also sounds like the blower motor has been disabled or there is a problem with the switch, blower motor, or wiring to or from... check the fuse to see if it is there first... they may have just disabled it because of the heater core (which means no hot air until it is fixed)

 

awesome man. i really do appreciate the help. if it involves tearing the dash out it sounds like im going to pay to get it fixed. this is my daily. and i also dont want to mess it up. its not so much the uncomfortable factor that i care about so much as it not being safe to drive because the window fogs up. if anyone has any other input i would surly appreciate it! thanks again fataltides for all your help. ill be sure to check the fuse then the relays then try and tackle the blower motor. ill keep everyone posted with whats what

 

Can you get a pic of the cut lines?,

it should be two hoses running into your firewall when your looking under the hood, one is feed the other is return, if your heater core is still in the car, chances are somebody did the quick fix and bypassed it like Fataltides said

if your heater core was bad(chances are yes) then you will have to move the dash out of the way, its alot of screws, but you dont have to fully take the dash out, just move it enough to get your arm between the windshield and dash to get to a screw on the top of the heater core box(Yes GM wanted to make it as difficult as possible lol)

I unbuttoned my dash to find out somebody had already removed the top screw(so i wasted alot of time)

the rest can be done under the dash, 2 more screws and the face of the box pops off to reveal the heater core

I can get you a picture of what a functioning heater set up looks like on a thirdgen under the hood if you need it(mine is an 89 RS)

 

for sure man the pictures would be great but i dont want to inconvenience you in any way. and yes i can get pictures up. ill take them today after class and post them. im almost 100% positive that your right because it has that nasty old coolant residue on it.

 

no inconvienience at all, i should have some under hood shots that are usable on my computer, ill find and post them when i get on my laptop

 

i dont have any good shots of the actual hoses that run into the fire wall, but i got an under hood shot of a mostly stock 305 TBI(Open element is only thing not stock)

the hoses would be on the Pass side firewall, the only two coolant hoses that run to to the firewall

you also have to make sure you have the Heater Diverter valve toward the front of my motor(the thing with a circle top and coolant hoses/and a vacuum line running to it)

 

guess i was wrong you dont have to pull the dash... here are the procedures
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Lift the hood on the Camaro and then remove the radiator cap. If you have recently driven the car, wait one hour before starting this repair.
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Place a coolant drain pan under the radiator in-line with the drain plug. Begin opening the drain plug until a steady flow of coolant comes out of the radiator. Don't completely remove the drain plug because re-threading it in the cramped space may prove difficult. If the drain plug seems hard to turn by hand, use a pair of pliers to get it started. Allow the coolant to drain completely from the radiator and then close the drain plug securely.
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Loosen the clamps on both of the heater core hoses with a flat-head screwdriver. Slide the clamps back on the hoses three inches and then pull the hoses off the heater core tubes. Both hoses connect to the heater core on the left side of the firewall within the engine compartment. They look just like your radiator's hoses but small in diameter.
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Open the passenger door on the car and scoot the seat back as far as it can go, so you have more working area.
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Remove the bolts from the silencing trim panel under the dashboard with a socket wrench and then set the trim along with its bolts on the driver's side floor. With the trim removed directly in view, you will see a two-foot-long black plastic heater case cover. The heater core mounts behind the heater case cover.
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Remove all of the bolts from the heater case cover and then remove the cover from its mounting position to reveal the heater core. The bolt at the top of the heater case cover is in a tight location but you can remove it without having to dismantle the dashboard.
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Line the floor area beneath the heater core with three large shop towels. Remove the heater core's support plate and then remove the screws securing the baffle in position. Carefully pull the heater core toward you to remove it from its position in the heater core housing. Do not tip or turn the heater core because it still has coolant inside of it. Install the new heater core by simply reversing this removal procedure. Use a funnel to avoid spilling coolant when you refill the radiator. The coolant that you drained from the radiator can be reused if the cooling system was serviced recently; if not, use fresh coolant to refill the radiator

 

 

I'll pm you more instructional pics