Instead of posting all of the problems I am having separately I decided to put them all in one thread. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. A little background on my aquisition of this albatross. I bought it from a friend for 700 bucks. It had already had the tpi replaced with a carbed 305. The 2nd motor had been run hot several times and I am pretty sure had been run low on oil. I drove it for a year and when it started to knock I replaced the 305 with a spanking new 350. So we are dealing with a brand new engine here. Here is a list of troubles I have acquired and what I think may be the issue. I am no proffesional so if anyone has alternative measures for fixing it please help me.

Sputtering and rough idle when first started in morning, idles fairly well when warm.- I cant figure this out I am on my third set of plugs this year. after I change them it runs great for a week and then does this again. I have tried changing the fuel air on my carb and the timing. thinking of going to a proffesional for this one.

leaky oil pan- I got one of those fancy dress up kits and replaced the timing chain cover. I broke the front seal, but didnt fix it right. I have the replacement gasket kit and just want to know. Will I have to jack up the motor to replace it or can I get by without lifting it?

Stuttering(stalling?) after hard acceleration-I have an Edelbrock performer 600cfm carb. with the edelbrock air gap intake manifold I think that my fuel pump isnt able to keep up with it. I am using the standard manual pump that was on the 305. I dont really know if this is even the problem for sure. Suggestions?

Car has rough idle if I turn up the bass on my subs- I have a 1000 watt amp and 2 1200 watt subs. anytime I turn them up loud the engine starts to run like crap. I know you are thinking that they are draining the battery, but my car has 2 alternators and 2 batteries. The amp is connected to its own battery. is it possible it is shaking a loose wire? or Is it possible that my engine ground wire is inefficient for two alternators? or is there something else I might not know about?

My suspension is shot- I am pretty sure its history, but what I want to know is, Is there a good suspension I can get that will also lower the ride height an inch or so? I have heard around the way that the Iroc suspension is an inch and a half lower, Is it possible to just slap on an Iroc suspension?

In relation to some of my issues, I removed the charcoal canister to make room for the extra battery(I was told it was just for emmissions) and I dont have a cat. converter. Dont know if these help or hurt the accelaration issues. The car has plenty of power, its just some small issues I need ironed out. Dont feel like you have to have every answer, I will take suggestions piece meal. I just cant figure this stuff out. thanks to all who can help!

 

Holly ****!!! ya got any cliff notes on this story [:-]

Oil pan. Even if you use a one piece gasket you should be able to snake it in there.

Those edlebrock/carter made by weber USA are POS out of the box! It might need some work and fine tuneing to get it decent.

One alt seperatly going to one battery seperate to the amp? Charge that battery full then disconect that alt and turn the stereo up and see if it still does it. The amp could be drawing so much the alt can put a strain on the motor. If it does not have an issue then that may be the case. If it still has an issue then you may want to check your stereo wiring.

When you removed that charcoal canister there wasa steel pipe that went to the tank. That is a vent. Did you leave it open or put a filter on it or plug it.

 

MadMike helpful as always!

The alternator and battery are separate for the amp and you were right I could actually see the belt flex when the bass hit. after I unhooked it, it didnt bog down anymore. I really underestimated the force it takes to turn it. Maybe I will go back to a single alt.

I am not very happy with the carb, I am considering putting it on ebay and getting a Demon or a Street Avenger. I am not too sure if that is the problem or not but I have heard alot of negative opinions on it, unfortunately after I bought it.

the vent is still open but it has some sort of round plastic peice still attached. I take it I should throw a filter on it? I sort of forgot about it after tossing the canister.

Hopefully the oil pan gasket wont be too much of a pain. If I have to raise the engine I read that I have to pull my distibutor and to do that I have to remove both engine mounts and pull the engine forward about 4 inches. Hmmm now that I think about it maybe I should look in the paper for another Z28

 

if u still want to keep the amp u can get a capacitor. i had the same problem when ihad my 93 cougar and a capacitor fix that

 

Thats right. since you now know what is causing the bog if you don't already have one try a cap. I never needed one because I have never gone over 300 or so on my amps but at times one would have helped.
It is amazing how much drag an alt will have under a load. More than the so called HP robbing AIR pumps

If you use a one piece pan gasket as opposed to the two cork side rails and rubber ends gasket you should be able to snake it around the iol pump and crank. I have had to do it that way before to save time from having to remove a bunch of stuff to raise the engine.
Also if you do have to raise the engine some you might be ok if you have the smaller distributer and not the one with the internal coil. Just pull thecap and rotor just in case.

 

I already have a one farrad cap on it. the two alts I have are 60 and 100 amp. I might try moving the hundred amp over and swap the pulleys and just use that but I dont think it will solve my problem either. maybe I can still run two batteries and use one batt as a cap. hmm lots to think about.

and mike what did you say about that pipe to the charcoal canister? should I put a filter on it?

I will have to see if I can find one of those one peices, does it work well and last long?

Does anyone have a carb reccommendation?

 

I don't remember how that valve works if it needs manifold vacuum from the canister to vent or what. I think though you should at least have that opened or some kind of breather on it so your tank does not implode. If its blocked off all you have left to vent with is your fuel filler cap and that is not much.

Felpro makes a good one piece gasket that works well. In fact if your motor is 86 or 87 and up it should already have a one piece gasket. Just make sure its the one with the thick front seal. Get one according to the year. The early 55-75ish have a thin front seal while the later has a thick front seal.

I assume since it has a carb and its the edelbrock that a square bore manifold was used. Pick a holley. Just get a new one because the only good holley is a new holley. Their remans suck.

 

my engine is a 70-85 350, and it has a four piece, two corks two rubber. I will try to find a single piece for it. Do I need sealer on it or is it a dry gasket?

I will probably pick up a holley street avenger, I have heard good things about them

 

There should be a one piece for it and no sealer needed though it is a good indea to put some small dabs in the joints where the curved parts meet the block. But you will have to be more specific on the year. Early, before 75 have a thin front seal and later has a thick. I think, and maybe some one could confirm, that the early also has a left hand dipstick where the later is on the passenger side. Not sure right now as to the years.

 

Dont abandon your camaro, ill even feel bad for it. Fix her up and keep her maintenanced when shes healthy.