Bypassing Knock Sensor
#1
Bypassing Knock Sensor
So, my motor thinks it has a knock... when it doesn't. At least I can't hear it, nor can anyone else. I have a 91 with a 305 tpi that has been rebuilt and has a mild cam. The knock sensor is new, as well as the ecu. When I bought a scan tool to try and figure out my code 43 was all about, I notice the knock sensor retarding the timing as much as 20 degrees when rpms are accelerating. When the rpms are decelerating, then knock is 0, but at idle it hovers around 9 degress of timing retardation. I have read up on the manual about the knock sensor, and it is only a resistor. About 4k ohm to be exact. I have found these resistors online, but they all seem to be running at a different wattage. Some are rated at 5 watts, 10 watts, or 25 watts. So far that's what I have come accross. I was just wondering which one to go for, or would it even matter?
Also on a side note... why the hell does the car run worse with an oxygen sensor that works? The previous was making the car stay in open loop, I'm guessing because it always thought it was cold. Keeping the car from enabling the learn procedure. I got a new one, put it in, everything is registering correctly, the car went to closed loop, and it starts running ****ty. It even enabled the learning procedure which I thought would make the car run better. Any idears?
Also on a side note... why the hell does the car run worse with an oxygen sensor that works? The previous was making the car stay in open loop, I'm guessing because it always thought it was cold. Keeping the car from enabling the learn procedure. I got a new one, put it in, everything is registering correctly, the car went to closed loop, and it starts running ****ty. It even enabled the learning procedure which I thought would make the car run better. Any idears?
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