I live in Warsaw IN, and right now its about 40s outside. So... probably not that.

 

have you put a pressuer tester to it? the new pump could be weak or the line have a stoppage? tricky fuel pump relay? the rely should be easy it should be the same relay used for other thing just swap it or one of the others on the relay board

 

I have not tried a pressure test lately, when I installed the fuel pump I did test the pressure and it was 11psi. I looked up and it should be 9-13. So that is right where it should be.

I will try the relay when it acts up again.

The problem with this problem is that I can only diagnose it when it acts up and it doesn't always do it consistently!! haha.
Fun times with cars.

 

UPDATE:

I drove the car again trying to get it to act up to diagnose the problem more and I found that the large coolant hose on the top of the engine to radiator was very firm. I don't think its supposed to be that firm. I thought maybe the thermostat was bad, so I took it out and tried starting it again and after it running a while and then shut it off it was still very very firm. Is it supposed to be firm? It doesn't really seem like its flowing correctly. Any suggestions? Bad pump? Would that throw a code? I have no codes.

 

I talked to a radiator guy and said the hoses were fine, just getting alittle more pressure than they are supposed to, but only like 1 psi or less. So thats fine.

I did have a chance to fiddle with the car a little. It died on me as I was pulling out of my drive way. I tried to prime the fuel pump with the wire under the hood and try and start it, didn't work. Then put a noid light in the injector harness to test to see if it was being told to fire. It did not light up at all while cranking. I sprayed some starter fluid in there and is came right to life.
Does anyone have any suggestions? or are we all out of ideas at this point?

Thanks!

 

sounds like the ECU is getting trigger signal check the crank and cam sensors and their wiring

 

Both check out okay. I think I am going to have to take it in to a shop. I don't have the necessary tools to check all the grounds and leads to the ECM. I think the problem is originating from that. Not sure though. Any other suggestions? I really don't want to spend the money sending this to the shop.

 

I took it to the shop last week and got it back yesterday. They told me that they replaced the Distributor. I was baffled that that was the only problem, but was glad that they had "fixed" it.

Well, it drove okay for a while, but today it was acting really bad. After starting the idle would not stabilize. It was revving up to about 1200 then down to 500. Back and forth for a while. When starting to go I had no power, it was very slow. Took forever to get going, then would have spurts of full power. It was very jerky and I knew it wasn't right so I brought it home and don't see anything visably, but can hear what sounds to be a hiss. Maybe a vacuum line somewhere? I have looked through them all and not found anything that seems to be that bad, but this is pretty loud. Just can't seem to pinpoint where its coming from.

 

They probably replaced the Distributor because the coil in the stock distributor isn't replaceable without fully tearing the thing apart with a press,

With that said it was probably the coil or module on the distributor itself that was dying when hot

Sounds now like you either have a vac leak or your ECM is heading out the door, are their any codes at all?

 

A little while back I suggested you look into the coil possibly being the culprit, have you changed it yet? In case you don't know where it is, follow the center wire on top of the distributor cap. The coil is mounted in plain site on top of the intake manifold, between the TBI and distributor. What you're describing happening to you sounds the same as what I've had before with an overheating coil killing the ignition. Still, you need to figure what you're losing when the engine kills, spark or fuel.