what the .... ? 2.8

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  #31  
Old 11-15-2008 | 10:48 PM
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Default RE: what the .... ? 2.8

did the 80s camaro have o2 sensors?
 
  #32  
Old 11-15-2008 | 10:55 PM
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Default RE: what the .... ? 2.8

Gorn, you are usualy spot on with your info. I figured you for an older guy that has been around autos for a while and have good knowledge of even the early cars.
But this time you are not with the pulling of the distributer. The OP has a 60 degree 2.8 and the distributer goes through the block, not the manifold. Now you can make it easy on me and search for pics on the web or I can go out in my garage and take a pic of a 60 degree's distributer hole location and post it for you.
 
  #33  
Old 11-15-2008 | 10:57 PM
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Default RE: what the .... ? 2.8

ORIGINAL: SpecterGT260

did the 80s camaro have o2 sensors?
Yes they did.
AndThrottle position sensors, air fuel solenoids, electronic ignition timing,Pretty much all the same sensors you find on todays vehicles. Started in 79 here on California vehicles
 
  #34  
Old 11-15-2008 | 11:03 PM
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Default RE: what the .... ? 2.8

Gorn, you are usualy spot on with your info. I figured you for an older guy that has been around autos for a while and have good knowledge of even the early cars.
My badI pulled the info off a online manual. I have not work on one of those for 18 years

1985-1992 MFI Engines
2.8L AND 3.1L ENGINES

See Figure 9
Fig. 9: Intake manifold bolt torque sequence for 2.8L and 3.1L MFI engines[/align][*]Disconnect the negative battery cable.[*]Drain the coolant.[*]Remove the air inlet duct at the throttle body and the crankcase vent pipe.[*]Unplug the vacuum harness from the throttle body.[*]Remove the throttle body.[*]Remove the EGR transfer tube. Discard the gasket.[*]Remove the A/C compressor-to-plenum bracket attaching hardware and bracket.[*]Remove the plenum attaching bolts and plenum. Discard the gaskets.[*]Remove the fuel rail.[*]Label and unplug the wires from the spark plugs.[*]Label and unplug the wires at the coil.[*]Remove the distributor cap and spark plug wires.[*]Mark the distributor position and remove it.[*]Label and disconnect the emission canister hoses.[*]Remove the valve covers.[*]Remove the upper radiator hose at the manifold.[*]Unplug the coolant switch and sensor.[*]Remove the heater inlet pipe from the manifold.[*]Remove the center intake manifold bolts.[*]Remove the center intake manifold and gasket. Discard the gasket.[*]Remove the transmission dipstick.[*]Remove the manifold bolts.[*]Remove the manifold. Discard the gaskets and remove the RTV sealant from the front and rear ridges of the block.[/ol]To install:

[*]Apply a 3/16 in. (5mm) bead of RTV sealant on the front and rear ridges of the block. Make sure the surfaces are clean.[*]Install the new gaskets on the cylinder heads. Hold the gaskets in place by extending the RTV bead up onto the gasket ends. Certain GM intake gaskets will have to be cut to be install behind the pushrods. Cut these gaskets as required and only where necessary.[*]Install the intake manifold along with the intake manifold bolts. Torque bolts in sequence to 13-25 ft. lbs. (18-34 Nm) on 2.8L engines and 19 ft lbs. (26 Nm) on 3.1L engines.[*]Install the center intake manifold with a new gasket. Tighten the bolts to 15 ft lbs. (21 Nm).[*]Connect the coolant switches.[*]Install the upper radiator hose.[*]Install the valve covers.[*]Install the heater inlet pipe.[*]Connect the emission canister hoses.[*]Install the distributor to the matchmarks, hold down bolt, spark plug wires and distributor cap.[*]Install the spark plug wires to the spark plugs and connect the wires at the coil.[*]Install the fuel rail.[*]Install the plenum with new gaskets. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft lbs. (25 Nm) on 2.8L engines or 15 ft lbs. (21 Nm) on 3.1L engines.[*]Install the A/C compressor-to-plenum bracket and attaching hardware.[*]Install the EGR transfer tube with a new gasket. Tighten the bolts to 19 ft lbs. (26 Nm).[*]Install the throttle body.[*]Connect the vacuum harness and air inlet duct to the throttle body.[*]Install the transmission dipstick.[*]Connect and other remaining hoses or wires.[*]Fill the cooling system.[*]Start the engine and check for proper operation[/ol]
 
  #35  
Old 11-15-2008 | 11:22 PM
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Default RE: what the .... ? 2.8

ORIGINAL: Gorn

My badI pulled the info off a online manual. I have not work on one of those for 18 years

[ol][/ol]
Lucky you!
That manual added a little bit extra work. I just happen to have my brothers V6 Camaro in my garage with the engine out of it right now. Of course your post made me question myself so I double checked before I chewed your butt
 
  #36  
Old 11-15-2008 | 11:31 PM
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Default RE: what the .... ? 2.8

Not to steal the thread but I have a 96V6 tore apart in my garage. They sure as heck did not make them any easier to work on. I could have one of those 2.8's out in a few hours with a cup of coffee in one hand. This dropping the motor out the bottom is kicking my butt.
 
  #37  
Old 11-16-2008 | 12:19 AM
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Default RE: what the .... ? 2.8

Well you can do it through the top. But you have to take most of it apart and put it back together to do it. My brother helps a guy change them out once in a while and they kinda got it figured out how to do it when there is no lift and such available.
 
  #38  
Old 12-08-2009 | 12:57 AM
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Default Car will start but wont stay running...

Hey guys, I see your pretty good with the 2.8s well heres one problem you can kick around. I have an 87 camaro 2.8 v6. Now see i was driving the car and the power wire from the battery to the solenoid fried by touching the exhaust manifold and shorted out the solenoid. So i replaced the wire and the solenoid and drove it for a day or two and then this happend..

Car in mid drive lost voltage, the gauge bottemed out. I tried to give it gas and it nose dived. Well since then i cant get it running right or even at all. I replaced the fuel pump and strainer, fuel pump relay, fuel pump fuse, Distributor cap, Gm moduel, ecm, plugs, wires, and rotor. I have perfect fuel pressure at the rail, and i have perfect spark every where and yes the firing order is right.

Now heres the kicker. when doing all of this i noticed the distributer was loose. so i turned it a bit and it made the car start but died. So i fugured the timing was off so i set the timing to ten degrees the the hood says. and still the car will start but wont stay running with out giving it gas....any ideas??
 
  #39  
Old 01-09-2010 | 01:25 PM
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Default what the 2 8

Euro May Finally See a Breakout Against the Dollar This Week Against

Fundamental Forecast for Euro: Bearish

- European Central Bank takes another small step in unwinding stimulus by upping collateral standards
- The pace of Euro Zone inflation improves, but the annual figure is still contracting
- Are technicals leaning towards a EURUSD breakout that spurs reversal or trend continuation?

There is a lot to watch when trading the euro in the days and weeks ahead. In the background, we have a withdrawal of stimulus that is starting to build momentum, developing interest rate expectations and concerns that the Euro-region economy will fall behind in the bid for recovery as government spending tapers off and exposes the true cut of the nation’s health. However, traders will more concerned with what is in the foreground. A range of notable economic indicators will offers some sense of predictability for volatility. But, the intense threat of an impending break and trend revival rests with intangible fundamental dynamics like liquidity and the influence of a domineering US dollar.

It should come as no surprise to any trader that risk appetite is the primary catalyst and fundamental fuel for the financial markets. After an eight-month trend founded largely on the investors’ need to reinvest funds and take advantage of a historical rally; we have seen confidence turn into hesitation and concern. No other currency translates this sentiment into price action quite like EURUSD does. A big-picture look at this pair shows an intact, rising trend of higher lows from March; but the past few weeks have turned to chop that is starting to develop an ominous bias. This unnatural sense of calm is reason enough to worry about a potential breakout this week; but aligned with the unusual market conditions that back this liquid pair up, the probability for a violent end seems far more remarkable. Though a true trend development will come on the basis of underlying sentiment, the currency market will likely take its cues from the US dollar – which has been battered for its safe haven qualities. Adding to the torrential calm, the US markets adding the greatest single injection of liquidity in the world is looking at an extended holiday weekend starting Thursday; and in turn, a full-week of notable economic releases will be condensed into just a few days. A constant application of event risk and shallow market depth may be the final ingredients for a breakout.

For its own part, the European economic docket is stocked with significant market-movers of its own. At the start of the week before US liquidity drains, we will be offered a thorough reading of sentiment and growth. The German GfK consumer and IFO business confidence readings will define growth expectations into the months ahead. The former will be particularly important considering the German Finance Ministry recently suggested fourth quarter regional growth would slow from the strong third quarter showing owing to consumers’ efforts to retrench themselves as jobs and wages recede. Perhaps the most visible release of the week, the second final reading of 3Q GDP will offer much needed detail on the health of the various sectors. It is important to weigh how much of the recovery to this point is on the back of German citizens, businesses, trade and government. However, trumping the quarterly figure for timeliness, we will also see the first measurements of the November PMI figures. Though they cover predominantly service and manufacturing based activity, it is considered a good gauge for broader growth. Then, after the US markets close up shop early, euro traders will have many more notables including German CPI and Euro Zone confidence readings for most of sectors.

In the above mix of scheduled and unscheduled risk, we will likely find the break in EURUSD – whose liquidity alone will likely carry those other euro crosses that don’t already have a direct link to risk along with it. However, we should not lose sight of the big picture. After we see a meaningful reversal in speculative influences, the influence surrounding forecasts for growth and interest rates as well as efforts to improve fiscal health will likely gain prominence
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  #40  
Old 01-30-2010 | 10:28 AM
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i lso have a 87 camaro 2.8 v6 and just wanted to say thank you to gorn for setting teh record straight the late 80's did have an ecu that functioned like newer cars, also as for bad mouthing the shop for teh timing issue i can agree with both sides more than likely he did pull the distributor which is unnecessary in this case however most times it is just the norm, this is why he would have to time it any time you pull the distributor wether you mark it or not you should check the timing. as far as the other side goes yes if you have a high performance motor you should never touch teh timing unless you are a very highly trained tech in a speed shop however we are talking about a 2.8 v6 not exactly high performance any guy with a timing light n half a brain could time one. as for teh dirty injector how do you know this wasnt a problem before you brought it in? obviously with a bad intake manifold gasket the car ran like crap and couldve simply covered up this problem. on the flip side of things if your car is running this badly after being brought to teh shop then yes they probably werent the brightest bunch of guys. normally if you take it to a reliable shop they will stick a code reader on it and be able to figure out which sensor is bad wether its you map or whateveer i would need to know more info before diagnosing a vacuum leak but if your rpm's are jumping around at idle like that vacuum leak is to blame the reason for this is the sensors are working and the ecu knows its idling too high so it tries to drop your rpm's to a normal level once you do this if you have a vacuum leak the lower rpm's will not be able to sustain vacuum and the car will bog down causing teh ecu to jump the rpm's to keep running once you start driving your rpm's get up higher and the car can compensate for the vacuum leak but you will notice your mpg will go to crap due to the added load on the engine. hope this helps!
 




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