Now I'm thinking It's the fuel pump after all. I didn't hear it yesterday when I first turned it on. Then I turned the key off and back on a couple times and heard the pump on the third or fourth key turn but it didn't seem as loud as it normally is.
I was going to cut a hatch to change it out but I think I'll just do it the "proper" way since It isn't my only vehicle and I don't have to get in a hurry with it.

I think I'll stick it out with this car and keep poking it with a stick until something happens.

The body is in decent shape aside from the crumbling grille and needing some fresh paint.
The engine is losing oil and coolant from somewhere but I haven't taken the time to see where it's coming from yet.
If it comes down to it that the engine becomes a lost cause then I believe it would be pretty easy to swap the motor since there's so much room in the engine bay.

 

yah i thought that too, boy was i wrong. you gotta take the rearend out and the exhaust off. i was changing my exhaust off anyways and thought, no biggie to drop the rearend and slide it out. welll its not so simple. the tank itself is a pita to get out without the rearend and exhaust in the way. the car has got to be a pretty good distance up in the air to get the dang fill tube out.

 

I was thinking about a turn down on the exhaust in front of the axle anyway, so this would be a good time for it.
I can break out the high lift jack if I find a solid enough point to put it on and jack that puppy way up in the air.
I think I'll try it that way anyway, I doubt it's any harder than the fuel pump I changed on my 89 Thunderbird.

 

Pics of my old 91, this is how high you need to get it. You can jack the back up by the rearend center section, shore it up by the frame (blocks or good jackstands), then disconnect the lower shock mounts and lower the rearend.

 

That's good to know, thanks.

 

I am having a very similar trouble but i have a 96 camaro z28 with a 383 stroker and I havent had the car running in over six months but at first one day it would start and run like nothing was wrong and the next day it would not start just crank and crank. I have good fuel pressure throughout the whole ordeal. I have replaced the coil, ignition module, distributor, plugs, wires, and have checked the wires all the way back to the ecm. I have no idea now. I am getting no power to the ignition module so there for i have no power to the coil. could this be my ecm? and is there a way to test it before i spend the money on it too.

 

check your ignition switch under the dash by the columm. make sure its getting and putting out power. check your ignition fuse. heck check all your fuses in both fuse boxes. in the future please start a new thread with your issues and info. thanks.

 

When i first bought my '89 RS 2.8 it had the same start and die problem. But it stumbled before it died. Then after awhile of letting it sit, i could start it right up until i started giving it gas. then it would stumble and die again. so i replaced the fuel filter. after that it ran fine for a couple thousand miles then i had to replace it again for the same problems. its an inexpensive part and easy to change and it might change your diagnosis.

 

You said u had a problem with your oil pressure sending unit. Well if I remember right, the fuel pump is is controlled by the oil sending unit. When you 1st turn the key, the fuel pump will prime as the engine is turning This raises the oil pressure up to about 5psi and the oil pressure switch tells the fuel pump that there is enough oil pressure to turn on.

 

The fuel pump circuit through the oil pressure switch is a redundant, back-up power supply. After the initial prime, the pump relay is reactivated once the computer receives an ignition signal (engine running). The circuit through the oil pressure switch is to keep the fuel pump running should the pump relay decide to crap out. So, both the oil pressure switch/wiring and the relay would have to be bad, which isn't impossible to happen.