The other day I gunned it to get on the highway and all of a sudden the power said bye bye, then I let off the gas, hit it again and it said hello again.

It seemed like it lost spark for a moment then recovered. It did that a few times on the 10 mile ride home the other day and it's been parked since.

When I got home I revved the engine about 10 times in a smooth sweep to the red line to see if the engine would cut out and it did a couple times but recovered and the RPMS kept climbing each time. I would assume that if there were a flat spot in the TPS then the rpms would jump with every pedal push and not intermittently.

The car wouldn't start the next day, the engine would turn over and fire for about 2-3 seconds then die on the first try after letting it sit for a while. Then each attempt after that first one would result in the engine stumbling like it wanted to start but it would only last for a second (half as long as the first try after letting it sit).

I tested the coil using the Haynes manuals method and it showed bad so I replaced it. No joy.

I tried starting fluid in the throttle body and it would run rough until I hit the throttle, then it would die.

I tested the timing by having an assistant crank the key for a few seconds at a time while I shot the strobe at the timing marks. It showed 0º.

I tested the fuel flow and it is flowing through both lines like it should.

I tested the fuel pressure and it shows 45psi while the pump is priming then immediately drops to 0 when the pump stops priming.

I pinched off the return line and checked the fuel pressure again, this time it showed 72psi and quickly dropped to 0 as soon as the pump stopped priming. I assume that means the fuel pressure regulator might not be bad?

The injector 1+2 fuses are good.

I tested the fuel injectors pigtail that is farthest forward on the passenger side for a signal while cranking and it is getting power.

After checking for a signal on that fuel injector, the car fired up for some odd reason and actually stayed running.

So I set the timing and when I was trying to get the socket on the hold down bolt I noticed the distributor move because the socket extension was pressing on it. So I guess it got out of time because the hold down bolt was a little loose.
I set the timing to -10º right after I started the car and let it get up to temp and gave the distributor a couple minor turns to keep it at -10º.

I shut the engine off, tightened the hold down bolt, reconnected that wire that you have to unplug to set the timing then disconnected the battery for a few minutes just in case there were any codes present.

I reconnected the battery and it wouldn't start.
About 4 or 5 hours later I was talking to my dad about what I had done and how it wouldn't start then I put the key in while I was talking to him and it fired right up.

Yesterday I went out there to check the fuel pressure again and it fired right up again.

I checked the codes yesterday also and I got a code 42.

And that's where I'm at now, scratching my head and scouring the internet trying to find a little insight into my problems.

 

This is the description of Code 42:
Trouble Code 42 indicates that there may be a malfunction in the Electronic Spark Timing (EST) system.
During cranking, the timing is controlled by the ignition module while the ECM monitors the engine speed. When the engine speed exceeds 400 RPM, the ECM sends a BYPASS signal to the ignition module which switches the timing to ECM control. The ECM calculates what the timing should be then "tells" the ignition module via the EST circuit.
An open or ground in the EST circuit will stall the engine and set a Code 42. The engine can be re-started but it will run on ignition module timing.

The conditions for setting this code are:
System in BYPASS mode but the ignition module is still controlling timing, or
engine speed > 600 RPM with no EST pulses (ECM controlled timing) going to the ignition module for 200 msec.

Typical causes for this code include:
1) BYPASS line is open or grounded
2) EST line is open or grounded
3) PROM or CALPACK not seated properly in the ECM
4) Poor connections between ignition module and ECM
5) Poor routing of EST harness and/or poor quality ignition wires (EMI induced electrical noise)
6) Faulty or incorrect ignition module
7) Faulty ECM

 

Thanks for the reply, that's a few things to check that will get me closer to being back on the road.

I was reading on another forum about throttle sag just as the transmission shifts into 2nd gear being caused by a bad PROM. My car has had a sag in acceleration while the engine is still cold since I got it so I'm leaning toward the PROM needing to be reseated or replaced.

I just read haynes again to see if there is a way to test the ECM and came across a little tidbit that might be related to my issue. After setting the timing you need to clear the codes because a code 42 will be stored. I thought unhooking the battery for a few minutes would have done it but it didn't. I need to go out there and find that wire near the battery that needs to be unplugged to clear the codes.

Do you know what the deal is with my fuel pressure dropping to 0 psi quickly after the fuel pump stops priming? I'm checking it without starting the car.

 

The EST connector was unplugged the other day so I reconnected it and I still had the code 42 after starting it but the engine has been started a couple times since then and when I went to check the fuel pressure again (with the plans of pinching off the supply line after the pump primes the fuel rail to see if the check valve deal in the pump was bad) it read 45psi and as soon as the pump stopped priming it actually held pressure.
I started the car and after a couple minutes of running the pressure dropped to 39-40psi (it was jittering between the two so I assume that's the pressure regulator doing it's thing).
I pulled the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator right after I shut the engine down and didn't see or smell gas so I assume it's ok.
Also, the SES light is off now.
So I guess it's ok, just need to test drive it and find out for sure.

I also ordered some Taylor 8.5mm wires the other day because the 8mm wires off my Thunderbird give me some static in the radio if one of them lays in a certain spot (EMI induced electrical noise?).

 

I finally got around to test driving the car tonight.
It did fine aside from the hesitation from a stop about a mile after I took off (I assume that's the PROM issue that's associated with cold start hesitation).
I gunned it a few times and burned out just seeing if it was as it should be and it was.

I went 7 miles and dropped off the girlfriend then leaving her house I gunned it again and the car died. At first I let off the gas and hit it again assuming that it was my original issue but it was clearly dead so I slapped it in neutral and pulled to the side of the road then called my mom and had her bring me my truck so I could drag it home.

I tried to restart it a few times and it was the same deal where it will start for a couple seconds, stumbling the whole time then die.

I was poking around the engine while I waited and I noticed something that doesn't seem right to me. When I grabbed the pigtail for the oil pressure sending unit and pushed it in a little it let out a buzz like it was trying to do something. It does it every time I push the pigtail in and the connection has oil in it.
I believe I read somewhere that a bad oil pressure sending unit can kill the motor, is this true?

A recap of what I've done so far is:
-New coil.
-New spark plug wires.
-Set the timing to 10º BTDC, it was a little past 0º because the distributor hold down clamp was loose.
-Plugs, cap and rotor are only a couple thousand miles old.
-Cleaned battery terminals.
-The fuel pressure holds steady at 45psi with the key on/engine off.
-Fuel pressure after running for a couple minutes was 39-40psi.

The original problem hasn't changed and I bet if I go to start the car after it gets good and cold that it will start because it did that once before. It wouldn't start after running it doing the fuel pressure test then after it sat for a few hours it cranked right up as if there was nothing wrong to begin with.


This thing has me stumped. If I can't figure it out then there might be some parts (or an entire parts car) for sale on here some time soon.
If it comes to that then I'm glad I only gave $1000 for it and haven't dumped hardly any money into it.

 

sure sounds like a ignition module to me. also seems strange that the fuel pressure suddenly started holding. your first test indicates a bad fuel pump. have you tested fuel pressure when the car will not run?

 

The first test I did for the fuel pressure was when it wouldn't run and it didn't hold pressure.
Then later on I checked it when it would run and it held pressure.

So the ignition module would allow it to start and run until you put the go pedal to the floor then it would kill the motor?
Also what's the deal with the oil pressure sending unit letting out a buzzing noise when you grab its plug and push it toward the sending unit while it's plugged in?

 

check the fuel pump relay as well. if its starting with starting fluid then its a fuel problem. my speed reading is failing me. lol..

 

I had to read over my original post and think back to when I was messing with it.
I gave the throttle body a shot with starting fluid and it ran like crap but it did run briefly. The moment I opened the throttle blade it died. I tried opening the throttle blade while giving it a shot of starting fluid and it died again.
I would think that it would have kept running while the throttle blade was partially open while receiving a small shot of starting fluid if it were a fuel issue.

If the fuel pump relay were faulty then I would think the pump wouldn't prime at all but it does every time I turn the key on.

 

i would say get out of the car while you can. judging on your issues and what you have said about the car, its probably pretty rough. you can fix it if you know what youre doing. but you could also take the easy way out, yank the motor, and swap it. i generally never say that, but if that engine is as bad as you make it out to be, it would be a wise investment