Yeah, it's factory carbed. Upon removal of the M/C solenoid, I found a cracked o-ring on the tip. I'll see about replacing that o-ring, then I'll check for any vacuum leaks.

 

I will get that flow chart scanned and sent to you so you can test the m/c

cplthomas
Off topic but I get your humor. Its like the stuff I see in Uncle Johns bathroom readers.
Here is one from one of thier books.
"Half of all crimes are commitedby people under the age of 18"
"Most dangerous animal in Ireland, The Bumblebee"

 

I have the exact same car....engine and carb. And I also have "kinda" the same problem. I purchased a new elect. thermostat for my choke because the choke light wouldnt go out, but the car seemed to run pretty decently. After putting the new thermostat in, I realized that I wasted my money.....it did nothing. With the car cold, the choke plate will close and the car will have a normal fast idle...as it gets warm/hot the choke plate will not open and the car continues to fast idle. If you press the gas pedal with the car hot, the choke plate cause's it to starve for air.

Ok....here is my "jerry riggin" fix.......I found that if I take the choke thermostat out of the carb, with the wire connected, the choke light goes out. But as soon as you touch it to the carb, it lights back up. Me being the "master rigger" that I am, I put some elect black tape around the thermostat, keeping it from making an electrical contact with the carb. After placing the thermo back in the carb......problem solved, well kinda anyways.....the choke light will flicker from time to time.

If I unplug the choke thermo wire and turn the ignition on, it has 12 volts and stays that way. If I plug the wire in (without my elect tape fix) it would only read 2 volts with the ignition on, causing the choke not to heat up enough to open fully. At least now it gets the voltage it needs to heat up and open, but just havent gotten the choke light thing totally figured out.