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My 86 Sport coupe project thread.
So i figured its about time i start a thread on my 86 Camaro before i get further into it. I bought it in the beginning of July this year for 500 bucks not running and sitting for 3 years. I made some progress in the few months I've had it so I'm gonna post what Ive done so far and then add on from there. Hope you enjoy.
The car before i picked her up at the previous owners house. http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/741...44015large.jpg Picking her up. http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/5...7047501759.jpg At my house. http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/2...7447511759.jpg http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/2...7847521759.jpg I popped in a battery and she started right up. Ran very rough and smoked out the tailpipe. After pulling the valve covers, i found some yummy cake mix. http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/6...8000501759.jpg http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/7...0000551759.jpg |
Great deal. How's the interior?
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All the interior needs is a headliner and a very small tear stitched up on the bolster seam of the drivers seat. The dash isn't cracked nor any of the plastic pieces.
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The engine spun a bearing a few weeks ago and since then i started to pull it to swap in a 350. I got the engine out and the front end mostly disassembled for rust removal and paint/undercoating. The battery tray had it the worst, but i ordered an OER replacement tray that should come sometime next week. The lower radiator support also had some rust, so i ground it down and put on a few coats of rustoleum. Im gonna hit it with rubberized undercoating after the rest of the bay is clean and ready for paint.
http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/6...0911131300.jpg http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/2...0911131301.jpg http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/182/090911131401.jpg http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/4...0911131402.jpg http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/6...1011133400.jpg http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/6...1011133400.jpg This was done today: http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/7591/091111160801.jpg http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/4006/091111163201.jpg http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/361/091111163202.jpg I just have to re-weld the end pieces where the lower support meets the rest of the frame on both sides. I also had to cut out some of the passenger side frame behind the headlight as it was just eaten away. I'm gonna weld in a piece of sheet metal, then re-cut the circle for the headlight wiring. |
When i pulled the 305 i started rebuilding the 700. When i took it apart everything was alright except both the accumulator springs were broken. I bought a rebuild kit with alto clutches and new steels. Swapped in a corvette servo with a trans-go jr. shift kit, and .500 boost valve. Here are some pics from pull to finish. I'm bringing it to school tomorrow to throw on their trans dyno.
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/462/082111123701.jpg http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/2199/sam0090x.jpg http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/3296/sam0104t.jpg http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/585/sam0116n.jpg http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/7271/sam0117i.jpg http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/2...2711213500.jpg Fresh coat of Chevy orange. http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/3...2911115900.jpg http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/4582/082911115901.jpg http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/7112/082811183700.jpg All finished. http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/3...1111184301.jpg |
Put the trans on the dyno and it worked perfectly. Now i need to rent a truck so i can pick up the 350 that i am going to start building. In the meantime prepping the engine bay for paint.
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Originally Posted by mgg4591
(Post 572874)
Put the trans on the dyno and it worked perfectly. Now i need to rent a truck so i can pick up the 350 that i am going to start building. In the meantime prepping the engine bay for paint.
it's a project of passion and you're going about it the right way. |
Originally Posted by torque_is_good
(Post 572944)
it's a project of passion and you're going about it the right way.
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/8...2211151300.jpg http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/8...2211151400.jpg http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/2...2211151202.jpg http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/3...2211151301.jpg http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/9936/092211182301.jpg http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/1483/092211182400.jpg http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/9...2211182501.jpg |
you're spraying it outside???
When i did mine, I used the garage and still got freakin bugs in the paint. What are you using? I tried an HVLP turbine for the first time and was surprised at how well it worked. The guns cost more and you need to thin the material more than with a compressor. |
Originally Posted by torque_is_good
(Post 573167)
you're spraying it outside???
When i did mine, I used the garage and still got freakin bugs in the paint. What are you using? I tried an HVLP turbine for the first time and was surprised at how well it worked. The guns cost more and you need to thin the material more than with a compressor. |
change the motor mounts while it's that far torn down. It's a pain to get to one of the nuts.
You have to drop the a arm |
I was able to get the mounts out. It is tough, but I don't think its necessary to drop the A arm. I just fabbed up a wrench and used grease as a "glue" to hold the nut in place until the bolt was started. But I do agree now is the time to do the mounts.
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The mounts are both new. I replaced them before the 305 went south. I should be picking up the 350 Sunday night. I'm getting it for free from a friend, but it has been sitting outside. He said its a truck motor that came out of an 85 or 86, model unknown. Its all assembled so hopefully the cylinders wont be in too bad shape. All i really want is the block. A local machine shop said they can hot tank it, bore, hone, install freeze out plugs, oil gallery plugs, and install the cam bearings for 375.00, parts included. I'm gonna put on a set of vortex heads and intake with a mild cam. I have to call up Lunati and see what cam would be best. I hope to make around 400hp when finished.
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Carefull there.....free truck 350's scare me. Verify it is indeed a 350, 2 or 4 bolt shouln't matter for your purpose, but you need to verify that its even worth working on. You will need to talk to a few people on here that have gone the vortec route.....
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Originally Posted by djs383
(Post 573608)
Carefull there.....free truck 350's scare me. Verify it is indeed a 350, 2 or 4 bolt shouln't matter for your purpose, but you need to verify that its even worth working on. You will need to talk to a few people on here that have gone the vortec route.....
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Originally Posted by mgg4591
(Post 573458)
The mounts are both new. I replaced them before the 305 went south. I should be picking up the 350 Sunday night. I'm getting it for free from a friend, but it has been sitting outside. He said its a truck motor that came out of an 85 or 86, model unknown. Its all assembled so hopefully the cylinders wont be in too bad shape. All i really want is the block. A local machine shop said they can hot tank it, bore, hone, install freeze out plugs, oil gallery plugs, and install the cam bearings for 375.00, parts included. I'm gonna put on a set of vortex heads and intake with a mild cam. I have to call up Lunati and see what cam would be best. I hope to make around 400hp when finished.
you'll need to check but me thinks that will be a 2 piece rear main seal and solid lifters. are they going to grind the crank and align hone for that price? Before they do anything else have them clean it and magnaflux first. Why OK the large expense before you even know the condition of the block? |
Well we went to go pick up the 350 and it turns out it wasn't even there. His uncle apparently got rid of it but never told him about it. So instead Im gonna buy a 350 block off summit with all the machine work already done. In the meantime i made some more progress with the body.
I got the rest of the bay primed and painted. I went with a semi gloss black which looks really nice. http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/5258/primed.jpg http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/1230/primed3.jpg http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/4...yforengine.jpg http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/3...3011175802.jpg With the bumper on, before and after. http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/2...2211151202.jpg http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/2...0811173500.jpg I also got the rear removed and im going to pick up a rear with disks out of a 4th gen LS1. http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/7...0711132600.jpg Almost all the rust is gone, all that is left is the rust on the the pinch-weld below the rear bumper. I'm going to pull that today and cut out the rust and weld it up. I also have the gas tank pulled and im in the middle of undercoating the wheel wells and the bottom on the car. |
as you look to the powertrain and interior the money is going to fly from your wallet. Some sanding and rattle can primer can clean up a body but that is the point where many "projects" stop. That is why you see a lot of rollers for sale on craigslist. The infamous "fresh 350" for $400 doesn't actually exist.
Do you have a transmission for a V8? If it's the T5 then it will be borderline unless you get it beefed up. You should shop around for engine/tranny combos on craigslist and Ebay. Then, compare prices of buying the used item and getting them rebuilt vs buying new or reconditioned items. Also, don't be afraid to vist your local parts store. They have resources where they will meet or beat the pricing from the on-line retailers. If you have time, it also doesn't hurt to go visit a couple machine shops and let them know that you are in the market for a rebuilt SBC, and give them your contact information. But, only do that if you have cash in hand and could pounce on a good deal. Don't waste their time unless you are an able buyer. |
I just finished rebuilding the original 700-r4 that came out of the car. I used alto clutches, new steels, new valve body, seals and gaskets, and installed a transgo jr. shift kit and a corvette servo. I also used a 3-4 drum from a 4L60E that holds an additional clutch and steel. That's sitting in my basement ready to go in the car when i get an engine.
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/1...1011111200.jpg |
Originally Posted by mgg4591
(Post 577110)
I just finished rebuilding the original 700-r4 that came out of the car. I used alto clutches, new steels, new valve body, seals and gaskets, and installed a transgo jr. shift kit and a corvette servo. I also used a 3-4 drum from a 4L60E that holds an additional clutch and steel. That's sitting in my basement ready to go in the car when i get an engine.
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/1...1011111200.jpg attaboy. You're part way there. Did you replace the forward sprag too? How about the sunshell? if you end up with 350 ft pounds of torque or more they will soon be toast. been there, done that.............. |
Originally Posted by torque_is_good
(Post 577200)
attaboy. You're part way there. Did you replace the forward sprag too? How about the sunshell? if you end up with 350 ft pounds of torque or more they will soon be toast.
been there, done that.............. |
Originally Posted by mgg4591
(Post 577243)
yea i got a TCI sunshell and a TCI forward sprag.
you are doing it the right way My hunch is that you don't want to toss any old junker of an engine into the car. With a bad economy comes opportunities for those with cash. Real Estate is a bargain as are vehicles and parts. You just need to find distressed buyers. It may seem awful but if you are preapred to react quickly then you can find a bargain. I would go to a few machine shops because chances are you may stumble upon a rebuilt SBC where the owner could not pay and the shop wants to recover their costs. When I had my SBC rebuilt there was a BBC the machinist had done but the owner couldn't pay. I could have bought it but I wasn't in the market for a BBC at the time. Look around, there are deals out there on GOOD ENGINES. There is also a lot of junk. |
Im going to go with a 383 stroker. Summit has a block with the machine work already done for 650.00. Gonna go with a mild cam and vortec heads. Before i buy the block and start building the engine i want to get the new rear, and finish the suspension so she can sit on all fours again. I also need to get a new master cylinder and replace the front brake lines to get the brakes back.
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I got the back end apart and the rear bumper removed. After the bumper reinforcement is replaced all of the frame rust will be eliminated. All that is left is the rust on the bottom of the doors, but they are getting replaced.
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/1...0911123201.jpg http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/7...0911115800.jpg |
A little update, i got a set of doors off a Firebird at the junkyard for 33 bucks a piece. My Camaro has crank and wank-ems so Im going to do a power window conversion. I ordered a harness off flea bay for 37 bucks shipped, complete with the door boots and switches. Below are a few pics.
My current doors have rust holes through the bottom. http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/2456/sam0617q.jpg New doors. http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/5314/sam0616s.jpg There are a few small dings that i will need to fill, as well as a bend in the metal on the passenger door where it looks like someone tried to pry it open near the lock. Im going to hammer it out then fill it. Aside from that NO RUST:icon_clapclap: |
Originally Posted by mgg4591
(Post 579376)
A little update, i got a set of doors off a Firebird at the junkyard for 33 bucks a piece. My Camaro has crank and wank-ems so Im going to do a power window conversion. I ordered a harness off flea bay for 37 bucks shipped, complete with the door boots and switches. Below are a few pics.
There are a few small dings that i will need to fill, as well as a bend in the metal on the passenger door where it looks like someone tried to pry it open near the lock. Im going to hammer it out then fill it. Aside from that NO RUST:icon_clapclap: I'm sure you considered it but replace both window motors while you are at it. |
Originally Posted by torque_is_good
(Post 579439)
it's the little details that always aggravate me. Now you have to get the locks on the doors and hatch to match.
I'm sure you considered it but replace both window motors while you are at it. http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/7...2011171500.jpg |
Well it was raining all day today and since i don't have a garage i did some stuff inside the house. Got both the knuckles cleaned up and painted.
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/9692/sam0667v.jpg http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/4794/sam0673w.jpg Cleaned up and primed http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/3584/sam0674t.jpg Passenger side finished, drivers side is still drying. http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/4538/102711212703.jpg Got the passenger door just about done with prep yesterday. Its all filled and sanded. Just need to sand the body filler on the bottom and prime that section, then give it a good wet sanding. http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/9...2611145800.jpg Also my wiring harness for the power window conversion came yesterday. 37 bucks shipped off eBay with switches. http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/9572/sam0663.jpg |
I'm going to put this in the projects section (linkable) keep the pics comming. Looking forward to following this thread.
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Just a little update. I may be getting full time job at a dealer so that will mean more $$ to get things moving along faster. Just waiting for them to finish the background check. For the time being i starting putting some of the engine bay back together. Started running the wiring back to were it was, and got the a/c blower housing re-installed after paint. My fenders also came in the other day. Just need to replace the door pins before i can put them on.
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/7...0511172201.jpg http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/9...0311144101.jpg http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/3...0311162600.jpg Did a test fit on the passenger side and it fits pretty well. The annoying part is gonna be getting all the edges to line up. |
Well its been a while since i posted an update. I slowed down on work because of the cold and i don't have a garage. I got alot of the body work done. Got the greasable door hinges installed on both sides as well as new lower pins and detent rollers. It was 60 degrees today so i got her primed and hit her with some satin black krylon. Its gonna be a while till i can afford a real paint job, after shes on the road, and i didnt want to leave the car in primer because of rust.
For a rattle can it came out really good. Gonna hit it with another coat and it should be good. Probably not gonna be very durable, but it will work until i bring it to get painted professionally. Here are some pics: Dont have any front shots because i need fenders and a hood. http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/3332/img0128cn.jpg http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/6067/img0131kj.jpg http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/6702/img0129sr.jpg |
Any updates?
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I just read this whole thread, I think you are doing great! Keep up the good work and that car will live again to be better than she ever was. So far, AWESOME JOB!
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Yeah, to do that yourself, too! Motivates me to get some anti-corrosion spray and do the wheelwells and other parts underneath my car in the spring.
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I'm gonna finish up the wiring this afternoon then hopefully I can get the interior in by the weekend. I sold the 700-r4 and im going with a t56.
Just need to solder the power window and door lock wires into the fuse box and run speaker wire. I finished putting in the 4th gen clutch pedal assembly and cut the hole for the shifter. I'll have some pics later on today. I also got the windows in and all the new weatherstripping installed |
Well today i finished 95 percent of the wiring:icon_dance-tap:. I got the clutch switch wired up and ran the wires for the reverse light switch to outside of the car. I also got the main power for the power windows and door locks soldered into their factory place in the fuse box, and they work great. Also ran new speaker wire from the speaker locations to the rear hatch area for when i get the amps installed later on.
I'm set to get the interior in now. I have new carpeting i got a few months ago and i just cleaned up the hatch carpet as it was just a little dirty. I just need to run the power cable for the amp and the wiring harness for the rear defrost as the car didn't come with it, and i would like to add it. I can do that later though. I also found a nice set of third gen rear leather seats a few months ago. I'm either gonna get a set of front seats to match, or a pair of sparco seats instead. Also need a headliner, but that can wait. http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/3743/img0244lx.jpg Under coated http://img806.imageshack.us/img806/5155/img0229v.jpg Shot of the undercoating under the car http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/3004/img0056kv.jpg http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/4...g0055ajrae.jpg New door seals nice and tight http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/4083/img0231lp.jpg http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/3454/img0230i.jpg Old K member removed, getting a tubular UMI to replace it http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/8544/img0137wi.jpg Ready for an engine:icon_mrgreen: http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/1042/img0153xa.jpg |
Awesome work, and doing it yourself! Way to go, progress looks great!
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All i can say is "WAY TO GO". You will have one of the nicest 3d gens around. I would love to do this to my 93 z.
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Well we had a lot of heavy rain and wind the other day, so if there were any leaks at all in the body, they would show now. I got water in the hatch area, which is to be expected because there is currently no hatch seal installed, but the new one has been ordered. The drivers side was completely dry, but the passenger foot-well had a small puddle. Last week I sealed around the plastic junction where the harness comes into the car as there was a small gap there. Now that the puddle came back after this rain, i know that wasn't the source. It looks like its coming from the joint were the body pieces meet and there is that black tar on the seam. There is a small chunk of the tar missing and it looks like its dripping from there.
I'm gonna seal up the inside and outside of that joint and hose it down really good. If the leak is gone, the interior can go in as soon as that hatch seal comes in. I also thought the windshield may be leaking, but there are no signs of water anywhere above the floor, so it probably not. |
It is a very good idea to make sure the vehicle is leak proof before putting the interiot in.
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