TIG looks around to make sure Camaro69 or Gorn aren't lurking

for me, the worst part was dealing with all of the diff oil that had sprayed everywhere. I had crap dropping in my eyes, into my nose etc. When it sprays, it attracts sand and everyhting else like it's a magnet. It took me 2 hours to scrape, wipe, spray and get it somewhat clean back there. But, I'm sure that's not what you meant

drop driveshaft

put a bit of white paint on the nut and yolk, count the threads and make note of how many are exposed, remove nut and count how many turns it takes to remove (that's why the white paint)

remove old seal, install new seal, put nut back on and count and check relation with threads

since you're there, you may as well replace the fuel filter too.

 

i got all that. i actually borrowed the yoke for my 95 blazer when the bolts broke off. when i replaced it with a junkyard unit, the seal decided it didnt like it and blew out. i havent gotten a chance to look at it, but its probably the same as a wheel seal, correct? pry the old out, carefully and squarely install the new?

 

actually, IMHO, it's easier. I put a big screwdriver on the inside lip, pried and it popped right out. But, my vehicle had been driven for lord only knows how long with a leaky seal and you have no clue just how much crap can be picked up when there is 90w oil sprayed everywhere. I wasn't joking when I said that I spent a couple hours scraping. The torque arm took me 45 minutes of scraping and using de-greaser just to get to the painted metal.

The prior owner must have thought it was the diff cover that was leaking because he rtv'd the heck out of it.

 

being low on refrigerant made my new compressor cycle on/off. I updated to a new compressor and dryer so it can run 134A


Installed the new window, regulator and motor. Line up new motor onto regulator, make sure the end of the gear from the motor is at the very end of the regulator, wind the spring a little and attach motor

fight with new window to get it in, slide in regulator/motor combo, pop rivet it in, press the swtich, window goes up, and up and up and damn...............3/4 inch more to close and it's done going up...........ugghhhhhhhhhhhh. Oh well, disassemble/reassemble. My gut tells me that when I tightened the nuts and bolts on the motor that it had probably slipped a few teeth on the regulator.

 

still to be done

replace heater core. I presently have it bypassed
get gauges- tach, oil pressure and temp gauge to work
figure out how I messed up the horn and still can't get the turn signal cancelling cam to shut the turn signal.

but

I am now in sanding mode. So, I'll be sanding, and then sanding some more, then putting glaze/spot putty on the few chips and scratches that are deep, sand some more and then I get to try my HVLP turbine sprayer.

I'll post pics after I have it sprayed with primer. But, I'm going to find excuses to go slow with the body work. Maybe I'll work on the lawn and try to get it to thicken.

 

Who would ever think to remove the sail panel, remove the speaker, pull out the insulation and stuff your hand all the way down just to find that last nut that was holding on the ground effects........................

way to go GM. But, from the same company that forgot the fuel pump access hatch what do you expect. I'm having a blast sanding.

And please take it easy on me about the car in the background.

 

got it primered today. I love the HVLP turbine

I'll let it sit a few days while I'm out of town and then I'll come back and hit it with 800 wet, seal it and then spray it white. I'm using a single stage urethane.

 

Very, very nice

 

How much did you pay for the leather?

Also it wont let me check out the pictures, anyone know why?

 

maybe you're too new and it makes you wait to be able to see pictures?

As for my leather upholstery as well as my interior pieces, you are going to be hard pressed to match or beat what I paid.

There are 2 ways to do the seats. The first is more costly and that is to reskin them like I did. On my 4th gen, I used custom fit seat covers from coverking on amazon.com. Those slip over the existing seat but don't look like the cheap seat covers from the parts store. They actually look like the upholstery. You could get the covers on ebay from igee and pay more as tey are the same product as got on amazon

or, you could reskin

if you want faux leather aka vinyl, then you're going to pay around $500. For cloth you'll be in the $300's. Do a search on ebay under interiors/seats for your model year

If you read the thread I believe that i stated what i paid but, for leather upholstery, still in the box with a chevy dealer's address and name label, and it was for all 4 seats and both headrests, I paid $260 to a local guy.

For the interior, I got all the black plastic, the cargo shade, drivers and passengers window in great shape, center console and cover, all the hardware, new weatherstripping for around the outside of the doors and clips, door panels, HVAC control

I paid $175


with the upholstery and interior parts i found the items on craigslist, quickly met with both sellers and agreed upon a cash sale price. One seller was a 3 hour drive for me and the other 90 minutes. I knew both were great deals and did not debate, did not delay, did not hem and haw or post on a forum asking if it sounds like a good deal etc.

I knew both were great deals and thus why i bought them well in advance of when I needed them.