89 RS Budget Restoration

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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 08:42 PM
  #51  
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i dont have the brace that went on my headers for both the a/c and p/s pump, and didnt have any issues. i havent had the a/c functioning yet, but i dont see it really needing that extra brace. i have seen though that summit makes header brackets, but i didnt see one for the a/c
 
Old Feb 4, 2011 | 07:33 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by microkid
i dont have the brace that went on my headers for both the a/c and p/s pump, and didnt have any issues. i havent had the a/c functioning yet, but i dont see it really needing that extra brace. i have seen though that summit makes header brackets, but i didnt see one for the a/c
thanks

wanna take a stab at the turn signal cam :-)

Why is it the stupidest things give us the most problems?
 
Old Feb 19, 2011 | 10:26 AM
  #53  
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I finally got around to bolting on all of the accessories. FYI, if you delete the AIR pump, you need a longer serpentine belt due to how it needs to be routed. I ordered one on line for $12.50 shipped vs $35 plus tax locally. I charged my battery and gave her a crank just to see if she would catch. I won't run it without the waterpump being driven. Of course it won't fire. I'm sure the timing is way off, I go to grab my distributor wrench............................off I go to buy one because i can't find mine.....ugghhh.
 
Old Feb 21, 2011 | 03:25 PM
  #54  
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oh, well engine rebuilder didn't correctly set the initial timing. Sooooooo, do I remove the distributor or..........................yup, call me lazy; #1 is now at 2 o'clock.

fired up, now I just need to set the timing correctly but I had to run. I'll do it tomorrow.

Who knows, maybe I'm still one post off but I'll get it set properly.

Then I can tackle the toughest problem of all. How do I get the turn signal cancelling cam back onto the column and get it to function..............
 
Old Feb 22, 2011 | 03:34 PM
  #55  
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I ended up with # 1 sitting at about 3:30. Timing is set and it runs great. Next up, the leaky heater core ( I bypassed it for now) and while testing the tranny with it still on jack stands one of the caps from my rear u joint went flying off. I heard a whack and then felt wobble wobble. Interesting as it was in place. I sure hope it was the correct u joint for the car.
 
Old Feb 22, 2011 | 05:51 PM
  #56  
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Sounds like the C-clip was missing
 
Old Feb 23, 2011 | 07:45 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by age84
Sounds like the C-clip was missing
nope. Well, it's missing now. I'm going to a friends house today to use his press to press off/on the new u joint. It will be good to finally get it off of the jack stands so I can clean the garage. Then the body work begins and I will tackle the instrument cluster.

Fortunately, it only needs minor sanding and paint.
 
Old Feb 26, 2011 | 04:09 PM
  #58  
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I got the seat belts all put back in as well as the black door panel on the passenger side and new weatherstripping there.

Next is the reg and motor on the drivers side door and I can button up that side.

I took it for a spin. The rebuilt tranny shifts fine and kicks down where it should. It has the 2.73:1 gears in the rear and it shows however, the rebuilt 305 TBI (it's 310 cid now) is "spirited" No, it's not like my 07 stang or 4th gen but I'm more after the looks of the 3rd gen. I already have 2 performance vehicles.

A guy i know wants to buy it when I'm done and give it to his 2 kids to share. he knows what I've done to it and that it's also going to get a coat of paint so he sees it as an almost new car and a better value than paying $5k for something on a used car lot.

Sadly, I may not want to get rid of it or at least enjoy it for a month or two before selling.
 
Old Mar 2, 2011 | 02:42 PM
  #59  
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Default SO, how do you counter-act a black engine

throw a little blue and chrome under the hood. (if the hood were installed)
 
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 07:42 PM
  #60  
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how hard was it changing the pinion seal? any special tools to install it or just a large socket?
 



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