Can I Expect Any Differences Between Richmond Gears And My Stock Gears. Such As Having To Shim The Pinion Gear Differently And Such? BTW I'm Going With 4:10 Gears And Mini Spool. Sick

 

well the stock rear end that came with the auto tranny's is a 2.73 ration. going to 4.10's is going to drop your ET right down. But something you definitely need to work on is tires, because you will not make any traction with the tires you have now, let alone with the 4.10's. Its a very good investment though, i am actually getting 3.90 rear end in less then 2 months from now.

 

Any time rear end gears are changed out, the whole set up procedure needs to be done. So different size shims may be needed. The whole shim kit and crush sleeve are usually included with the gears, but you never know. It is best to let a specialized shop handle the work, as some special tools are needed. But if you have time, patience, and pay attention to details. the job itself is pretty starigh forward. Just keep in minf that the shims are never right the first time out, so the job needs to be redone a few times to get it right.

As Timmy mentioned thr 4.11 will get you rolling more quickly, the spool will be a big help, but now you are really going to need some sticky tires. I don't know what transmission you are using, but with the 4.11s, first gear will wind out in a big hurry, so don't let the engine over rev. Good luck on your next run.

 

This is my first time building a rearend. To tell you the truth i don't have the particular guages i need and i'm not big on the idea of paying somebody 300 bucks to do it. at the risk of sounding shadetree ... is there away of adjusting without using guages. i have heard that you can use a piece of paper and if you can run it through the gears without tearing and without having slack it will be pretty close. also. if i use my exsisting pinion shim ... can the adjusting be done by shimming the carrier alone? can the adjusting be done by trial and error or am i gonna screw the gears up?Sick

 

If you don't have the special gauges you can do the trial and error thing by by putting blue dye on the ring and pinion gears and substitute side bearing and pinion shims until you get the right tooth contact pattern. You start with the shims you now have and adjust from there. Most manuals have pictures of what the pattern should be. You still need a feeler gauge, but you should be able to get the setting right by just looking at the wipe pattern. The bigfgest pain is removing the pinion gear nut. If you don't have the right holding tool, disconnect the drive shaft and drop the rear wheels to the ground and get the nut loose with a breaker bar. The impact wrench is faster, but it can damage the gears.