10 bolts get a bad rap from guys who have blown them apart because they had too much power AND Traction, if you know your limits on it and have it set up right, it will hold, everybody knows they arent great rears, but hey they come cheap and have plenty of aftermarket parts to repair them

 

Also aside from too much power and traction, guys complain when they blow up an old, leaking, high mileage 10 bolt. The 10 bolt in our cars is the same one used to put the power to the ground in LS1 4th gens, many of which are modified well past 400hp.

 

I agree with jr mechanic,I am currently running a 8.5 gm 10 bolt rear with a detroit locker,moser 28 spline axles, c-clip eliminators, and 3.90 gears and it has held up well at the track with slicks and on the street for two years now.

 

Well thats the goal...to eliminate the weak link. Going into this project I knew that a high mileage rear would not take abuse of any serious nature, thats why I want to do it right. Lets face it a rear behind any motor after 153K is not fresh let alone behind a motor that puts out over 3X what the old one did. I feel like I have done everything else "right" so far.

 

the blazer rears are only good for internals as they are leaf spring vehicles. look for rpo code gu6 (i think thats it) as that will be the 3.73 rear, and 4wd models had a limited slip. not the best design limited slip, but it works when you need it to. im fairly certain 95-02 lt 4dr models all had 3.73 and limited slip. im not sure about the body style before though. also, what year is your car? i think 86 or near that year the 10 bolt went from 26 spline to 28 spline. thats something else to keep in consideration. im not sure what the axle length difference is, but the blazer is rather narrow but uses the same wheel offset as 4th gen camaros, so the axles themselves might be the same length. any more info might be best asked from a driveline professional, possibly who you would have to install it

 

Your goal is "to elminate the weak link" and that is the 10-bolt rear. I gave a estimate of $800+ to rebuild your present rear which now I think would be a waste of money. I would suggest going with Dana S60 or Moser 12-bolt which can be ordered for a direct fit on 3rd Gen and give the strength you want and need. I know my right foot gets heavy at times.

For a idea of the price, go Spohn Performance and build the rear of your choice for a cost comparasion. Additional note, stay away from a Locker (not for street use) and those S10 truck rears with the Gov-lok limited slip...they are junk.

Winter is here and you might want to wait and consider your options...Weak or a strong link for the rear axle assembly.

 

Well, being in southern arizona, winter is the best time of year to enjoy the car. I will check out your suggested links. I want the rear to be strong enough not to break and ruin what I've accomplished so far with the car. If it has to be 2K or higher, then so be it. I'm already so far into this car I could have got a 5th gen, but it has a lot of sentimental value as I've had it since 94, so I have time and patience. Thanks for your help.

 

I think you are making a good decision. I have owned mine since it was new in 1987 and I can name the parts I have not replaced easier then ones thaI have. Yes, I drive year around in Florida.

 

A bolt in replacement rear is hands down the way to go if you can stomach the money. A 9" is heavy and is probably overkill, I'd either go with a 12 bolt or D60. With a Moser 12 bolt you can reuse your factory discs.

 

ah hell, go with it. www.spohn.net has an order for with all the options clearly shown and can answer any questions. i plan on ordering my rear through them and picking it up as im only an hour away. the rear i priced out is about $2800 to reuse factory disc brakes