I lkost the cover to my fuse box and dont know which fuse is for the horn, and i need to remove immediately because in replacing my ignition switch, i messed up the wire so the hord will engage randomly and when i move the wheel. WHICH FUSE NEEDS TO BE REMOVED?!?!?!THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!

 

its an 82 by the way!

 

i just found the owners manual to my 84 (cant believe I still have it) and if it is the same the fuse is number 11 and its a 20 amp.
counting from left to right starting at the top. it should be next to the first circuit breaker.

 

thanx man but i think mine is different, when i look at the fuse box, the fuses are all labeled with words and none of them say horn. im confused. does your manual say how to remove the ignition cylinder lock by any chance?? im having a hard time getting it out to replace it.

 

It probably doesn't, but here it is.

You'll need a steering wheel puller and a lockplate compressor for this, and should pick on up before you even start, as well as various torx drivers, between 15 and 45, if GM had started on Torx by 82 (not exactly sure when they started the Torx love affair...)

Some of this may be a bit off, as my car had an airbag when I did it, but the basic collumn design should be the same.

Start out pulling the steering wheel off. From there, you'll have to pull the lockplate off, this is done by compressing the plate and removing the retaining ring in the center of the plate. From there, you'll have to remove the turn signal mechanism. Be certain to make a note of the assembly, as the self cancel cam is a ***** to get right unless you know exactly how it was. I believe that should have you at the cylinder. There's one screw holding it in, and it will only come out in one possition, I THINK it's accessory, but I'm not sure, been quite a while since I did mine.

Should you run in to anything else that you can't get past, describe it to me, or send a pic, and I should be able to tell you what to do. Like I said, it's been a while since I did mine, so I'm kinda rusty.

 

is the screw holding it in visible without removing the turn signal mecanism? i removed the wheel, but i dont have the tool to take off the plate. I can see all the way to back in the steering column tho, to where the cylinder is, but it is in a casing i believe. i can see one torx screw, but it is a little too far to the left to be going into the cylinder, and i see one normal screw, which goes through some plastic which i believe is part of the signal mechanism. but i dont have that tool, and im not too mechanically inclined so i would hate to screw the turn signals up, i mean i already got the damn horn going off non stop lol.

 

The screw wasn't dirrectly on the cylinder, and it was definitely a torx, I think something like a 20. You MAY be able to reach it on that one, like I said, it may be slightly different from mine, as mine was 9 years newer. I had to pull the turn signal off, though. Personally, I'd snap a picture with a digital camera, and blow it up for refference before going any faster. As for that lock plate remover, it's a fairly cheap tool, only about $10-15 at most auto parts stores. It's basically a long U bracket, a couple of tube nuts, some hex nuts,and a long bolt. One of the tubes goes on the steering shaft, and the long bolt and nuts are used to push the bracket down, allowing access to the retaining ring. pop it out with a couple of screwdrivers.

 

i think you might be right about the tork, because it is close to the cylinder, but a little too far to the left, and it is a 20, because the 15 i have is a tad too small, i gotta get a 20 and see what happens. thanx for your help, ill take a picture in the daylight tomorrow if i have any more trouble, and ill gett it up here so maybe you can help me out bit more. thanks a lot man, appreciated.

 

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11 being the fuse, 12 being a breaker

On removing the lock plate. If you have help and strong thumbs you and a buddy can get it off while pushing the plate down and removing the clip. But a tool is much more easier.
As for the signal cancel cam. It goes on in one place. the horn wire plugs into part of it that sticks through the lock plate and will move a slight amount in order for the steering wheel to fit over it.
Also there is the key buzzer contacts in front of the bolt that holds the cylinder. A small flat screwdriver through the hazard switch hole will fit through to pry it out. Dont loose the spring steel under it.

 

yeah i found that key buzzer, i poked it with the screw driver and it buzzed. what does the spring steel do? because there was this little spring thing and when i touched it with the screw driver the horn sounded, and i ripped it out and the horn stopped. lol. is that bad?? i dont use the horn anyways, i have this grant steering wheel and it has no horn button. ill check the fuse box again in the morning and try getting that one.