starting in the morning. i will be removing all the fuel injection. going to remove the dash and remove the check engine light and leave the computer for now. i can take pictures and go step by step if there is enough interest. install will include-
1. old style edelbrock performer intake--hogging center holes
2. barry grant 17021 bypass fuel regulater
3. brass pushlock fittings-an adapters (earl) -jegs pro hose
4. new procomp hei dizzy--set up for 7000 rpm's
5. swap meet new holley 80457s--rebuilt
6. 12 point intake bolts
7. holley adapter throttle-kickdown-cruise adapter brackets
8. holley carb install kit
9. stainless fitting--vaccumn tee
10. denso platinum plugs
11. msd wires
12. chrome timing cover.

should keep me busy all day. if you want to come and help come on over.

 

Remove the air cleaner from the car. Then cover the tbi with a freezer bag and blow off the top of the engine. I then removed the fuel lines,brake booster line, and all vaccumn lines from the tbi. Then remove the linkage and tie it back out of the way. I tied mine with a zip tie to the wire harness above the passenger side valve cover. I then unplugged everything on the intake. Next I removed the tbi from the intake and put rags in the holes. Also put some rags or something under where the fuel lines go as they will leak gas on the intake. I then began draining the coolant. After it all drained from the radiator I pulled the ¼ inch plug on the drivers side bottom of the block to try and drain the rest. There will still be some in the intake that will be stubborn. I removed #1 spark plug from the engine and rotated the engine to tdc#1. Then remove the alternator and then the fuel lines. I disconnected them at the fittings from the steel lines and then unbolted the bracket that holds them to the mounting bracket under the alternator. Remove the steel line for the brake booster and the bracket for it from the intake. Then I removed all plug wires from the engine. don’t forget to mark where number one is on the distributor. Mine was lined up with the rotor pointing toward the front drivers side bolt on the intake. Then I unplugged the distributor and coil plugs. Then remove the coil and distributor and coil from the intake. Then remove the bolts holding the egr valve solenoid and remove it. I removed the heater hose from the rear of the intake. Remove the upper radiator hose from the intake. Remove the a/c bracket from the intake. Now it is time to unbolt and remove the intake. You are going to spill some coolant in the lifter valley. You will need to clean all this up. I used shop towels to soak it all up. I then put shop towels in the intake, exhaust, and coolant passages on the heads. I cut out a piece of cardboard to fit in the lifter valley. Clean off the old intake gaskets from the head. After cleaning the gaskets off I did a trial fit on the intake. Mine is a very old edelbrock performer intake. I was giving it a look see to see how much I would have to hog out of the four center holes. I used a die grinder with a carbide bit to hog mine out. I made sure I cleaned the intake very well before putting it on and off to test fit. After that I cleaned all surfaces with brake clean and installed the intake. I torqued mine to 30#. Start in the center and work your way out. After that I installed the new distributor. At this time I cut the plug from the big pink and white wire and hooked them to the distributor using an hei plug from oreilly’s auto parts. Make sure the vacuum advance canister had plenty of room to move. Mine points towards the a/c drier on the passenger side. Either use your old hold down or buy a new one. Mine is a new chrome one. I then installed my vacuum tee in the intake at the back in front of the distributor. I used a 1/8 pipe to ¼ inch hose barb and a 1/8 inch pipe to 3/8 hose barb. I then installed the carb on the engine and torqued to 80 inch pounds using a cross pattern. I then installed the heater fittings and hose on the front of the intake. ½ inch pipe to 5/8 hose barb fitting. It was at this time that I started ti find the choke power wire. I used the red injector power wire from the harness. Works great. I then cut off all the remaining plugs for the fuel injection harness that were not needed. And removed the map sensor and plug. I taped and tucked all my wires back in the harness for now. I then hooked up the vacuum line to the firewall that controls the a/c and other functions and the brake booster hose to the tee. I then hooked the pcv to the fitting on the carb and the vacuum canister to the timed fitting on the front of the carb. I moved my pcv valve to the passenger side valve cover. Then it was time to set up the fuel system. I used the earl adapter fittings on the fuel feed and return lines. I then installed two screw on to hose ****** fittings. These will have to be jic which has a 37* pich in the fitting to adapt to the an fittings. I then fabbed a bracket out of 1/8 aluminum to hold the regulator. All my fittings were hose barb fittings. I looked at an fittings and thought they were a little expensive. Look for brass push lock fittings. I also used jeg’s pro push lock hose. Man it fits tight. After mounting the regulator I measured out and cut all hoses and installed them. My regulator is a barry grant bypass regulator which is needed for a return. I chose barry grant since it had a gauge port on it. Now connect all the hoses. It was now that I removed the charcoal canister and the cruise control cable. I also capped off the vacuum tee behine the distributor that went to the cruise control canister. I stalled new spark plugs and then a new set of wires on the car. 18436572 is the firing order. Clockwise. I then removed the heater hose that went to the front of the intake. I started filling with coolant until coolant began coming out of the intake fitting. Hooked up the hose and returned to filling the cooling system. I left it down from the top about 6 inches. Now it was time to see if she would start. Oh yay. I then waited for her to warm up and checked the timing. Some may need to turn the distributor to get it to run or even start up. Turn on the heater to make sure coolant is getting every where. I set my timing to 10*. Then set the fuel pressure to 6#. Add coolant as needed. Now. As for the throttle and kick down linkage. I had a holley bracket that moved everything to close. The factory bracket moved it to far away. I ended up with a mr gasket bracket that has both kick down and throttle cable brackets on it. It is a little flimsy but will work. I have used a piece of aluminum to stiffen mine up but I am going to buy one of the ones from jegs that even has the return springs on it. Took a few trial runs to get the Tvs cable set right but no biggie. Now it is trial and error for adjusting the carb. I went to hooley.com and looked for my model number and downloaded the instructions. Made sure all gauges worked. I had a dc controller controlling my fans so I didn’t have to worry about that. I know that they make all kinds of controllers that can be had. I left my computer in and I am going to just remove the bulb from the dash. My pump still comes on for three seconds when the key is turned on. Your speedo, tach, and all other gauges will work. I did notice that my tach seems to be a little off. just a couple hundred rpm’s. the rest is making sure there are no leaks and that the cooling system has bleed the air out the rest of the way. Best of luck to you.
Parts ---1. bypass regulator--mine is the barry grant--has gauge port.
Misc aluminum from hardware or thin steel for misc brackets.
The fittings I used I got from fittings and adapters.com.
1-3/8 pipe to 3/8 hose barb push lock--straight-brass
2-3/8 pipe to 3/8 90* hose barb push lock-brass
2 -female swivel jic 37* to 3/8 hose barb-brass
1-fuel injection 14mm to 1.5 adapter oring--earls
1-fuel injection 16mm to 1.5 adapter oring--earls
10ft push lock hose
Pressure gauge--1 to 15 psi--summit
　
Intake-edelbrock-wiend-holley-or your preference mine was an old edelbrock I got for $40.00 bucks
Fittings for the heater hose or the old one out of your fuel injection intake.
Carb-again your choice. I got a holley 80457s from a swap meet and rebuilt it. It is a 600. Works great. Need to do some fine tuning on it.
A distributor-mine was a procomp hei from eBay I got for $62.00 shipped. Came complete. Hook up wires and go.
Gaskets-intake-carb-thermostat housing-distributor-silicone for intake-I used all felpro gaskets.
Hei tach and power wire connector--got mine from auto parts
Plug wires if you need new ones and I replaced my spark plugs at this time to.
Throttle and Tvs cable brackets-I ended up with a mr gasket bracket. Yours may work with a holley or one of the ones from jegs. I think I will order the one from jegs one day. I had to beef mine up since it was a little flimsy.
Change the oil since coolant and some things will get in the oil.
Hope this helps.
　

 

ended up removing the a/c as well. put in a heater hose valve and stripped some wiring.
this was the beginning'


here was the first rendition


last

 

And I thought I gave long responses now and then. I'm not sure, but you may be the new record holder for having the longest single (non cut & pasted) post! I didn't want to read it all, I'm just gonna wait till the movie comes out.
Have you driven the car yet? Curious if it's a night and day difference, which I imagine it might be? Sure looks nice.

 

Dude where did you get the bracket that's where the A/C and Smog should be? I've been looking for someting like that for forever....

 

yeah that looks alot better by far.

 

the bracket where the smog and a/c went is the stock bracket for a serpintine belt set up. that is an a/c delete pulley and a custom pulley and bracket i made for the smog delete. yes i have driven the car over a 1000 miles. i can tell you that it took a while to get the holley just right.but i can tell you that i would never go back.

 

how much of a difference was it between the tbi and the carb, i was going to do that to my old rs but then my girlfriend totaled it and i bought the z/28

 

i was having a few problems with the fuel injection. now that i am carbed i will never go back. but! if you do not know how to tune an engine or a carb well it will be frustrating. it took a whiole to get it just right with the timing cuve and the carb set up just right. but now it runs great.