i have a 350 tpi motor. ive had a problem with the car when it gets warm, it starts to run rough and almost stalls. i replace a vaccum hose, fuel injectors, plugs and wires, and a fuel pump. still nothing fixed it. i took it to a shop they ran all the tests they can think of and everything shows up normal. i drove it home today and it barley ran, every time id give it gas it would cut out and barley move. i almost didnt make it up a hill. im stumped and my mechanic has no idea....i think im gonna have to sell my car

 

why sell it? if its not a daily driver it would be a fun project.

 

maybe check your timing? i had something like this happen with my jeep but it wouldnt idle at all and it was carb. the timing fixed it

 

Check your oil and antifreeze to see if they're at the right levels, and that they don't look strange or off-color. What you are describing could be a bad intake manifold gasket. Could also be some possible warpage happening (with the heat) that breaks the seal between the head and manifold. If you have a leak, it might be internal where you can't see it. Just for fun, check to make sure all your intake manifold bolts are buttoned down good and tight.

 

My new truck is doing the same thing. but my trucks a 72 so i figured it was a little messed up. I would start the car, let it idle for a little bit. unscrew the screw holding down the distributor and turn it very very slightly. The idol should go up or down depending on which way you turn it. Its called advancing or retarding your timing. Once you get the idle to where you think is good drive it around the block and heat it up. If it doesn't do it then you found it, if its not then check your fuel rails, then if all else fails take off your timing cover and make sure that you didn't jump time.

 

well instead of doing what that guy said get a timing light and do it the right way.

 

Take a screw driver and lightly tap on the MAF sensor. If the idle changes when you tap replace it. Also did you do the cap and rotor when you did the wires? How many miles?

 

i replaced the cap and rotor on the distributor about 1000 miles ago. i cant check timing with a light on my car because there is no timing belt, the timing is done internally, the only way to do it is like chevy man 45 said. to advance or retard the timing from the distributor. but i dont think its the timing. i was playing around with the distributor yesterday, i was unpluging all the wires, all made the rpm drop except cylinder #8, it did nothing when i pulled it off, either its a bad plug , wire, or even worse the cylinder.

 

all my sensors were normal. the car runs bad when its gets warm it pretty much doesnt run. if i would shut it off it sometimes doesnt turn back on. runs real choppy and the idle bounces up and down. ive had it stall twice while driving. ive had it on the computer when it is running good and bad, both ways every test checks out normal like nothing is wrong.

 

if nothing changed on 8 cylinder and it only does this after it wrms up then only thing i can think of is change out the plug and wire then if it still does it do a compression test. if its low then squirt some oil down there and find out if its your rings or not