Thanks Chuck! As I mentioned before, if we pour gas down the throttle body it runs until it's out of gas, so we know it's firing. Did not check the injectors with the engine cranking, as we're newbs and don't know computer systems. We'll check that and the ECM today.
I think some (if not all) of the issues he's got are from 11 yrs. of sitting, and connections going bad. Like the fuel pump relay not working, and after switching it worked. But switched back and it still worked, so it was a connection issue. I'm guessing if we could go through the whole car cleaning connections it might run and drive like new.

 

As you see, one side of the injector is battery voltage, controlled by a relay.
The other wire is from the ECM and a pulsing signal is on it, high DC - inj closed, low DC, inj open. A
'Noid light works here, or the test light form Harbor Freight for $15.
Multimeters may be too much of a load and damage the driver of the ECM.
Don't use a std light bulb - definitely blow the drvr.
Like this one:
Computer Safe Automotive Logic Probe

 

We're using a digital multimeter, so it should be safe with the ECM, whereas a analog multimeter might be too much load as you suggested. Checked voltage today, and it's under 2 volts, but close to the same at both injectors. I can tell from the meter reaction it's a pulse, as it can be seen on the digital scale.
We have another issue today that seems to be a reoccurrence of the fuel pump. It pumps up a couple seconds when turned on, but now we have lost pressure. It had pressure before the filter the other day, but none after, so we replaced the filter. Today when I broke the lines again, it had no fuel at either side of the filter, so I'm expecting we'll need to drop the tank and pull the pump to see if it's either plugged, or a bad pump.

 

Uh-oh. If you can hear the pump run, but not shoot fuel, it's drop the tank time.

 

Yep! But I did find some people who figured out ways to do it with an access cut into the floor! One used flared lines with AN fittings and braided lines after cutting the stock lines and flaring the ends. The other just slightly flared the lines and used high pressure injection hose, and clamps to repair the cut tubing.
Not sure if he'll want to cut his floor or the lines, but at least I found pictures and options, if he wants to not drop the tank.

 

Below is my 91. I started out going the hatch way, so that pic should give you a good idea of what you'll be looking at. Those steel lines run across the left side of the tank, then drop down, without a break.
I cut off my old exhaust (needed to be replaced anyway) and lowered the tank a good amount at first, seeing if I could wiggle the sending unit and attached lines assembly out. Absolutely no way that was going to happen without cutting the lines. Since I had the tank most of the way out at that point, I figured dropping it would be no more work than cutting and flaring the lines to reconnect. Jury-rigging (in my estimation) the lines together with rubber wasn't an option for me, considering the connections would be tucked way up out of view to spot a leak, not to mention being above the exhaust. The supply lines are flared from the factory for a reason, and I didn't want to half ars my car, just to save a little time.
The hatch technique works a lot better on the 4th gen's because they have disconnects on the lines up there.

 

The '91 is running today! We cut in the access door, and then pulled the ring off the tank to allow the sending unit and pump assembly to be raised a few inches. Then using a little push style hacksaw I have we cut each line by hand on either side o those 90 degree bends. Once we had it cut loose, we brought the assembly up, and saw the badly rotted out connector hose you mentioned previously on your car.
We replaced the pump, strainer, and hose with new ones, and dropped it back in. The pump was too cheap not to replace while it was apart; only $40. Then we made up an access door cover and put it over the hole. Started it up first to check for leaks, and to see if it ran, and all is well! Purrs like a kitten, even with a 5"-6" hole in the muffler!
Thanks for the advice and help Chuck!

 

Wow, weird that it was the exact same thing. Must be a reaction with the rubber getting eaten away by the bad gas, or perhaps sitting idle for too long without being submerged lets the fumes attack it. So how did you reconnect the lines then?

 

Probably wasn't from being low on fuel, as this car had over half a tank of gas! But what is weird was we tried to see how much fuel it had by sticking a hose down into the tank, and it came out dry. But when we opened it there was over half a tank of gas! Is there something in the tank that stops people from syphoning gas?
We cut the lines just before the 90's, and just after. Then we spliced it back with fuel injector hose, and high pressure clamps doubled up on the pressure feed hose. The other lines got single standard hose clamps. We were able to get a nice gentle bend in the hose, so nothing kinked, and it all laid down nicely.
We actually thought about getting a nice aluminum access door, and installing it on top of the carpet, so it would be even easier if needed in the future, but the prices are higher than a fuel pump!

 

We got back into the '91 today. Once running, it had a bad miss, and stutter when giving it the gas, so we did a tuneup. New plugs, cap, rotor, and checked timing. Found a horrible cap and rotor, but also a bad coil wire to the cap that showed lots of corrosion from a loose connection! So we dug up a good used spare from the parts box, and replaced the coil wire too.
Little 305 is way stronger than I thought they were! It easily spins the tires in 1st, and gets a decent 2nd gear squawk from the tires too! This little Camaro is a runner. Wish I'd not passed on it, as I think it would be a fun car, even if my wife would have killed me for buying another car!