rough idle no missing. maybe spark knocking?(idk what that is) i dont know what that is. I took the distributor out. and tried to get it to TDC as best i could. I dont have anything that tells me exactly. Smoking very bably some coolant got in the engine will i was switching manifolds so im going to change oil tomorrow.


Heres what I did all togethor step by step.
1.Took of altenator and brackets.
2.took off water pump and all the hoses on that car.
3.took ditributor out.
4. took of the carb and manifold.

than backwards.
1.put water pump on
2.put manifold and carb on.(tried to put new edelbrock bracks on but they would let the tv cable and throttle cable reach the carb linkage.)
3.put altenator on.

I got 2 new belts one that goes across the engine crank, water pump, altenator. that one fit nicely but bracks dont bolt up to water pump like that should. Than belt number 2 goes from the crank to the power steering. This on is an inch or so too big when power steering is at its max point.

I even brang in the belts and he still just looked them up in computer and handed me different style belts...

 

Also car does not over heat now. New stewart stage 2 water pump has the temps staying nice and cool along with new hoses all around.

 

Ummmmm...DON"T run the engine until you change the oil. That's an automatic must do after a manifold change. Oil floats on water, which means any coolant that got down into the pan is sitting at the bottom ready for the oil pump to pick it up. Bearings don't consider water a lubricant.
And "knocking", if you have it, is caused by having the timing too far advanced, and it sounds like marbles inside the cylinders.

 

Any time a car can not maintain coolant pressure it will tend to over heat. Spark knock sounds like there is marbles in your valve covers, many people ref to it as pinging or they just say valve noise. It is not good to drive a car making this noise. You could damage the motor itself.

Also Coolant can have a chemical reaction to the babbit on your bearings. You could damage your motor if you run it with that coolant in there.

 

thanks for the information. dissapointed in myself for lack of prep i guess.
going to bed and got to drive tomorrow to work....my luck tthe motor will go.

 

well I got home safe and sound. needed to adjust the carb to get home. On the highway left a stream of white smoke behind my tracks. no alot but very noticable. usually when i gas it good. i stayed below 45.

Now my rpms are way to high. So my timing must be advanced too much. I have the idle bolt out as far as it could go and its at 1100rpms and than when I would put it in drive it would bog down and shut off. so i had to put the idle bolt in. and its around 1600-1700rpms idle and like 800-900 in drive.

So what do I need to do? take off the distributor cap and rotate is counterclockwise?

There is no noise or knocking. But the engine is rocking/idling real rough. Like I have a oversized cam in it. I took the wingnut off the air filter and it was practically jumping off the carb. its like a tank.

 

Do you have a timing light? Without it you're shooting in the dark. Rotating the distributor counter-clockwise advances the timing, clockwise retards it. And you don't need to remove the cap to set it.
If you don't have a light, you can set the timing the brake-torque way. That's where one person stands on the brakes and gives it some gas while another person rotates the distributor. Start with the timing retarded and advance it until you hear "marbles". Then retard it back until the marbles stop. If your engine is equipped with a knock sensor, that won't work with it hooked up. Also make sure the person under the hood is standing to the side, not in front of the car!
And this is all fine and dandy, as long as you're positive you set the timing at tdc #1 compression stroke. Otherwise you're just chasing your tail.

 

gorn came over and found the problem. I didnt get the intake manifold to seal right. So I have a vacuum leak along the intake. he is such a nice guy, and walks me through everything. So a long rough weekend of experience and no gain.

Thanks camaro69 for trouble shooting for me.

 

I'll bet one of those two intake has been machine to fit a decked set of heads. It could be the one you just installed was cut of match a set of heads or the orginal intake was cut to match your heads.

The timing thing we are going to have to figure out. I think going to the accel vacuum advance and dumping the CCC HEI is the way to go. With the computer disconnected there is no way we are going to get timing right. I think all you need is the cap. The coil and stuff will switch over. But you should fix one thing at a time since this is your driver.

 

thanks again gorn. im so grateful and lucky to have someone so close.
Im on page 6 of your build. Going to watch a movie with the wife and time for bed.