Check Engine Light

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Old Sep 13, 2007 | 10:41 PM
  #11  
MadMikeZ28's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2006
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Default RE: Check Engine Light

There is a solenoid for the EGR. Check all the vacuum lines. There may be those plastic tubes and they will break. and test for power to the solenoid. The solenoid should always have power and is supplied with a ground by the computer.
 
Old Sep 14, 2007 | 06:10 PM
  #12  
zerokool91's Avatar
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Default RE: Check Engine Light

Codes from the trusty old Haynes Manual

code 12 = no distributor reference pulse - This code will flash when the diagnostic terminal is grounded with ignition On and the engine not running. If additional trouble codes are stored, they will appear after this code has flased three times.

code 32 (carbureted models) - differential pressure sensor.- Defective differential pressure sensor; poor electrical connection, open or short in circuit; defective ECM

code 32 (FI models except 3.1 V6) - EGR sytem - Restricted vacuum hose to EGR solenoid or valve; poor electrical connection, open or short in circuit; defective EGR valve; defective ECM

code 32 (3.1 V6) - Digital EGR system - Poor electrical connection, open or short in circuit; defective EGR valve; defective ECM

 
Old Sep 14, 2007 | 06:31 PM
  #13  
BlueKitsune's Avatar
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Default RE: Check Engine Light

Its a V8 TBI and everything looks fine on it and so far I've really only had it happen once but when it did I felt a lost in power which is now back meh it might have just stuck for a second

 
Old Sep 14, 2007 | 06:51 PM
  #14  
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Default RE: Check Engine Light

Try this because I had to replace the EGR valve and the TPS ( throttle Positioning Sensor ) and neither one of those are cheap. But anywho, crank your car pop the hood and look at the EGR valve, it has a vacuum line on top of the pot of the EGR valve itself. Take it off while the engine is running. And put your thumb or finger over the hose ( but try not to bend it too much because its a cheap plastic hose that can be brittle and break easy ) and have someone inside the car and tell them to rev the engine slightly and you should feel if it sucks your finger a little bit. If it does, then your lines are good and you're getting vacuum. And to check to see if it the EGR going bad itself. There are three holes under the pot. Hook the vacuum line back up to the EGR valve. Put your finger in one of the three holes under the pot and have the person rev the engine up again and let off. The diaphragm inside should go up and down. If it doesnt take the vacuum hose off again and try to press and depress the diaphragm with your finger. If it stuck. You'll need to look at replacing it. Which isnt fun or cheap.

Hope this helped!

Z3R0
 
Old Sep 14, 2007 | 07:00 PM
  #15  
BlueKitsune's Avatar
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Ya know it hasnt been 30days since i got it from the dealer....I'll just get them to replace it for free XD

 
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