Changing Tranny Fluid
So I got a kit to replace the filter and fluid in my 87 Iroc. I would like to do this myself as that is why I got this car was to do the work myself to get it back into shape.
My question is what's the best method to support the trans to get that crossmember off so I can get to the bolts under it? 4 or 5 of the bolts on the transmission pan are under the crossmember... /sigh
I figured a small block of wood and a jack placed at the back of the trans right near where the drive shaft hooks (NOT ON THE DRIVE SHAFT OF COURSE) and a bit of pressure there from the jack would be sufficient. Then I can pull the 5 bolts off that hold the crossmember and pull it off.
I'm just being cautious by verifying my line of thinking. I am afraid I could damage the motor mounts if I don't do this right. I'm sure those are 23 year old motor mounts
I know the motor was pulled 10k ago to rebuild it based on documentation that came with the car. I'm just being overly cautious.
My question is what's the best method to support the trans to get that crossmember off so I can get to the bolts under it? 4 or 5 of the bolts on the transmission pan are under the crossmember... /sigh
I figured a small block of wood and a jack placed at the back of the trans right near where the drive shaft hooks (NOT ON THE DRIVE SHAFT OF COURSE) and a bit of pressure there from the jack would be sufficient. Then I can pull the 5 bolts off that hold the crossmember and pull it off.
I'm just being cautious by verifying my line of thinking. I am afraid I could damage the motor mounts if I don't do this right. I'm sure those are 23 year old motor mounts

I know the motor was pulled 10k ago to rebuild it based on documentation that came with the car. I'm just being overly cautious.
hm, that doesnt sound right at all. got any pics? the pan should be about 2 inches forward of the cross member. as for the actual draining process, loosen all of the bolts. on one corner, run the bolts out about half way. opposite of that corner, run them out only a little. remove the rest. gently pry down the corner of the pan with the bolts that are further out. that way you can control the direction in which it starts to drain
Some of the bolts can be a little tight, but with the right socket (thin wall is best, or a custom grind job on a cheapy) there is no need to remove the crossmember. Like micro said, loosen them in a manner that will let you control where it drains, i.e rear right corner.
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Brady Mikesell
93-02 Transmission & Differential
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Dec 6, 2012 05:56 PM



