Alright, this is the list that I have already that needs replaced. I'm looking for OEM style parts, nothing performance (unless it's availible only slightly more expensive). Heres the things I need:

Hardware for struts. All the rubber peices, bolts, nuts, etc.
Rubber brake lines front and rear (possibly looking for braided stainless?).
All 4 brake rotors and all brake pads.
Front lower ball joints, and whatever I might need to go with them.
Center steering linakge bar bushings (I'm hoping you guys can get that one).

That's the list for now. The mechanic hadn't moved on to the rear at the time. Hopefully there aren't any more parts needed, and that he can be more specific for the steering bushings. If there is a website I can get OEM style (I don't care if it isn't GM parts) for cheap, please post it. I need as much help as I can with this. Also, I'm hoping this would be covered in my Hayne's manual. If it isn't, does anyone know of an online guide on how to replace ball joints?

And on top of this, I need to find a garage to work in.

Also, I keep seeing things for with and without performance brake package. Now I checked with a GM dealership a little bit ago to find out, and their parts books showed no difference or option in rotors, calipers, etc. Is there any way to find out for sure?

 

Well, first off, Chiltons. Haynes SUCKS. There's a link to buy one at the bottom of my signature.

I like Summit Racing and Advance auot parts for most of my aftermarket parts needs. Don't be decieved by the name, Summit Racing is often as cheap as or cheaper than the local parts store and sometimes you even get higher quality product. What you're reffering to as rubber brake lines are simply called brake hoses, lines more commonly reffer to the steel tubing used in the solid mount sections of the brake system. The ball joints should be a fairly easy job. I've never done one on a camaro, but I've done enough other cars. One thing with that job I cannot stress enough, and this is true with any suspension piece, the stud WILL be irrepairably damaged if you hit it with a hammer. No matter what, and your first instinct will be to hit the bottom of the stud to force it up out of the hole. Don't. Get a prybar, a 3 pound mall (the thing that looks like a short sledge) and a friend. Have the friend pry down on the part from a safe distance, while you smack the side of the coupling with the hammer as hard as you can without hitting the stud. This will shock the joint and allow the stud to break loose without damaging anything. As for brakes, I'll tell you the same I tell everyone who asks about brakes. For my money, if I can't buy Wilwoods, I go with Bendix Titanium. And when you install the new pads, break them in properly, it makes a big difference in the life and performance of the pads. 30 moderate stops from 30 mph, 30 seconds between stops. As for steering, not my department, hopefully someone on here can help you with that one.

 

The performance package had a two piston aluminium floating caliper. The standard package had a single piston cast iron floating caliper.

 

well, im 17, and ive got $1500 to my name, minus $900 for tires and insurance. for brake rotors, im looking at raybestos stocker replacements, at the bottom of http://parts.replacementgeneralparts...s&make_code=CV
or the brembo stocker replacer
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...ar=&perfCode=P

i still havent been able to find anything else. i found a braided steel kit, but they were $117, and i cant afford that

i just remember, EBAY!!

 

Summit is the place you could usualy find everything. But I do know a guy that works at this place and they have evrything Earls. www.amstreetrod.com or 800-990-1912. I was just there and he was showing me all the stuff including Earls braided brake lines.
Plus if you know a part number but cant find it at summit if you use the number in a search on thier site chances are it will come up.

 

I got one question though....Why is this post so W I D E ???

 

Um you could get the $15 pickle fork designed to separate ball joints (from the control arm and spindle) and tie rod ends. Moog makes good suspension parts and so does TRW for stock replacements. I like getting the greasable joints instead of the "sealed". If you're going to to replace the ball joints, just go ahead and smack the hell outta it. But you do need a ball joint press to reinstall them. You can usually rent them from your local parts store.

Upgrading cost money.

Sway Bar Bushings
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...53&D=%2D125553

Solid rotors won't won't yield as much braking performance increase as slotted or dimpled. For rotors, you could get Bendix replacement rotors for a fraction of the price.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku These are pretty damn reasonable.


SSBC twin piston aluminum calipers. These are AWESEOM!!! I know it's outt your price range, but just to let you know.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Brake pads to match the rotors
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Brake lines
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
http://www.buybrakes.com/store/ED692080

Strut parts, I recomend local parts store. As with the center link, ball joints, stock rubber brake lines, and tie rod ends. Autozone has the best prices around here.

If you're flushing out the brake system, you can use the Valvoline Synpower that exceeds DOT3 and DOT4. Since it is synthetic, you can mix it with DOT 3.

 

That would be the enormously long link earlier. It has no spaces or puncuation after that questionmark near the begining. I know this isn't a forum on HTML, but the browser won't break the string to wrap to fit the text in the given window dimensions because it has no accepted break in the text, in the form of a space, question mark, exclamation point, comma, period, etc...

 

That Valvoline brake fluid isn't silicone based, is it?

 

SynPower High Performance Synthetic Brake Fluid is recommended for ABS, hydraulic drum and disc braking systems and hydraulic clutches requiring DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. Its premium, synthetic, low-moisture formulation provides superior anti-vapor lock protection. It has a high dry-boiling point up to 500°F that reduces the risk of fluid vaporization and possible brake failure.

Exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 specifications
For most ABS, disc or drum brake systems
High boiling point reduces risk of brake failure
Compatible with conventional brake fluids


2. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS

Ingredient(s) CAS Number % (by weight)
-------------------------------------------- ------------- -------------
MIXED ALKYL ESTER 35.0- 45.0
TRIETHYLENE GLYCOL MONOBUTYL ETHER 143-22-6 20.0- 30.0
TETRAETHYLENE GLYCOL MONOMETHYL ETHER 23783-42-8 5.0- 15.0
POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL 25322-68-3 5.0- 15.0
TRIETHYLENE GLYCOL MONOMETHYL ETHER 112-35-6 5.0- 15.0

So no.

http://msds.ashland.com/ShowMSDS.asp...LUID+6%2F32+OZ