well the first is just a simple question. what type of refrigerant do i use to recharge the system? i think its r-134a. ive never done it myself, and ive seen my dad do it improperly quite a few times.

also, the relay to kick on the clutch on the compressor. where is it located? my clutch doesnt kick on, and im guessing its either the relay or the selector switch in the cabin. if it is the selector, how hard is it to replace the whole assembly? im considering it because my high speed setting on the fan works most of the time, and there is a hiss between floor heat and defroster that really annoyed me all winter.

if its not the switch or relay, what could it possbly be? i tested it with a hot lead from the battery, and the mechanism still worked and was compressing.

 

If the valves are small. a little largers than tire valve stems its R12. If it has been retro fitted it should have large service ports. They wont look like a tire valve.
If the system is too low on refrigerant it wont kick on.

 

you want to use the now (illegal to purchase, ozone depleting) R12 coolant which is ridiculously expensive. it should be cheaper to convert to the R134A coolant which is used in cars today.

 

If you need R12, you can use a legal substitute, like Freeze12 and the system will work fine with no changes.If you intend to use R134a, you will need to change the oil in the compressor to a type, like PAG,that works with R134a, replace O rings and seals with ones that are compatible with R134A, and the expansion valve should be replacedwith one thatprovides the additional pressure needed for the R134a. However, to do the job properly, the system needs to be fully evacuated with a vacuum pump, in order to remove all air and moisture from the system, and especially the receiver drier. Moisture in the system will freeze internally and clog things up, while air will dilute the refrigerant, making it less efficient.

 

I finally bit the bullet and had my R12 system changed over to R134. I had estimates upto and over a $1000 to change over. I knew my compressor was shot and needed replacing and that was xxx number of dollars. Finally found a small shop that would rebuild my compressor and do the changeover to R134 for $370. I jumped at that number and it was a done deal. Everything works now and it blows 50 Deg air from the vents. R12 is a dead issue and if that system needs work you are going to have to change to R134.

 

IMO, the 12 is done like black said. But if you can manage to lay your hands on somecheap r12, just recharge it if your kinda tight on money. Mine was dead when i bought it, but i have about 36 cans of r12 here,,, dont ask how i got it as i dont know.......

If your not tight on money at all, find a shop that will do the conversion around you and do it. It will creat less headahces down the road. OR, do like i do, and just dont use it. lol

 

alright, i could have sworn i saw a sticker on there that said "converted to r134a...", but i think it fell off. the metal cylinder thingy has a sticker that says xh-7 for use with r12 and r134a refrigerants. the blower housing says r12. the compressor says oil must be added for servicing, and is a delphi unit, but doesnt say what type of refrigerent.

how can i tell what type is in there?

heres pictures of the valve on that cylinder.

 

Your car has the 134 fittings on it as in the pics you posted.

 

alrighty. ill prolly pick up some recharge cans after work tomarrow and start working on it

 

well, two 18 oz cans of refrigerant and oil, and its running about 20-25 psi, and is moderatly cold. thanks for the help guys.

also, can you guys notice when cruising on the highway when the compressor is pumping more and less? i can feel just ever so little a change in the exhaust tone and a slight rpm/speed reduction. is that normal?